Moss Motors, Ltd

Overheating

Overheating may be caused by improper point gap, incorrect timing, a bad radiator cap, sludge in the cooling system, dragging brakes, loose fan belt, defective thermostat (or no thermostat), or no water in the system. Check these first if you have an overheating problem

---

Working on automobiles is inherently dangerous. Moss Motors, Ltd. is not liable for injury or damage due to incorrect installation or use of their products. All products are sold with the understanding that the safe and proper installation and use of the products is the customer’s responsibility. Follow factory workshop manual procedures and instructions, but use current shop safety standards and common sense. Some tasks will require professional advice or services which Moss Motors cannot provide.

If you have a specific comment or question and you'd like an immediate reply from Moss Tech Services, don't post here - please first email: BritishTechnicalSupport@mossmotors.com Please include the Title and Location of this tip if applicable.

Forum FAQs here.

I just finished putting together my 1960 mga 1600 and took it out for a drive around town (80 miles of freeway driving) the last two miles were city streets and every time i came to a stop light my water temp. went up. As I would drive the temp. went down to normal. (At least what I think is normal, around 190/200I.)just replaced the fan and thermostat. Any thoughts? I hope to drive it to So/Cal in Sept. about 240 miles of dessert.

I have this problem with my MGA 1500 ever since replacing the worn-out engine with an early MGB 1800 unit. The temp sits right in the middle of the guage no matter how fast I drive or how much load I put on the engine, and only affected slightly by the ambient temperature. As soon as I slow to a crawl or idle at traffic lights for more than a minute or so, up climbs the temperature. Engine block and head were prepped during overhaul by removing all core plugs and mechanically removing all sludge/scale, radiator is new and been flushed many times. Thermostat has been changed from new item to sliding-sleeve type, now to new type with blanking sleeve - no difference at all. On switching off, needle climbs right to top of scale (amost into oil pressure scale) before gradually cooling off. Cooling therefore seems perfectly adequate during normal driving but on idle or switch-off it seems to have a major heatsoak problem. Have tried everything and have now fitted an electric fan (left engine fan in place) controlled by the dashlight switch. I switch it on whilst in traffic and it stabilises the climb at around 100 degC. Why should I have to do this?  Any suggestions?