Moss Motors, Ltd

I recently purchased ( from Moss )the shock valves used on the "Works Rally Cars". I would like to take some time and ask questions before I wind up wit a puddle of shock fluid on my garage floor ( in addition to the usual fluids).

 Question: Is it as simple as removing the original valves and threading the new ones in?

Question: Do the shock arms need to be in a specific place/postion to fit the new valves in place?

The shocks are Armstrong shock.

I would greatly appreciate any advice!

tmghealey

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Tom
59 100-6
65 mgb
70 mgb

Tom,

Yes, just unscrew to old ones and install the new ones. No, the shock arms may be anywhere in the stroke. After replacing the valves, the shocks will need to be filled and bled. You don't mention which Healey you have, but the Big Healeys are all pretty much the same in this area. I will assume you have a manual to show you how to fill and bleed. By the way, this is not something that should be done to a worn out shock. If they are leaking or loose, you won't really be making an improvement.

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

Motorbill66

Thanks for the inforation.

I have a BT7. The shocks are not leaking so no problem there, but the manual does not cover the shock bleeding process. Judging by your response, I am assuming there might be more to just filling and bouncing the car with the top filler plug slightly loosened to bleed out the air until fluid runs out.

Is there more to it?

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Tom
59 100-6
65 mgb
70 mgb

What you are trying to do is make sure all the air is pumped out of the valve area and from around the pistons. You should leave a bit of an air pocket at the top of the shock to allow for expansion of the fluid when it heats up from use. If you leave the shock on the car you really can't fill the air chamber anyway as it's higher than the fill plug. If you fill the housing completely you will then force fluid past the seal when the shock gets warm. It's a pain to bleed out the rears as you usually can't get a good sight of the fluid to see any bubbles that might be coming up. They're usually easier to bleed off the car on the bench. Basically about all you can do on the car is just cycle the arm up and down slowly several times, let it sit for a few minutes then cycle it again a few times and check the level. If you can go through a couple of cycles without the level dropping then you have the air out.

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'73 Midget (V6)
'59 MGA (I6) under construction
'73 Lotus Europa

"There is a fine line between a hobby and mental illness"