Moss Motors, Ltd

currently am owner of 1974 TR-6.  Original cannister oil filter.  I've often wanted to change to a spin on adapter.  I've been reading different blogs about  pro's and cons.  Are there differences in adapters for Moss or TRF or are they the sames thing? once on I read that you can change the oil without removing the oil drain plug ? pressure relief valve? I'm confused. I would like to do this. but I'm not sure , even the filters they say have differences with relief valves or not ..Fram PH3600 seems OK.  I'm tired of starting the engine with oil coming down from below. That O-seal is hard to seat...or maybe I don't know the exact way to make it an easier job then it appears...any tips?

need help and advice

thank you

Tyson

I put a spin-on adapter on my '68 Sprite and I'm VERY glad that I did!

The only problem I had was dealing with the oil cooler. The adapter hoses were not designed to accommodate the oil cooler connection. My fix was to use some iron pipes and fittings from the local home improvement store's plumbing department, to fashion an adequate coupler. This was quite simple and not a real problem, I just wish that the adapter already accounted for this.

The filter I use is a K&N HP-2009. It's got a flow check valve, AND it's the one recommended by the manufacturer of the adapter.

As far as changing the oil without removing the drain plug...sure, I do that on my boat all the time. Of course you'll need an oil pump, and the fill tube on the engine must be threaded to accept the hose from the pump! I've never heard of draining oil from a CAR this way since you can actually access the bottom of a car's engine, but what the heck!  - - - It sounds like malarkey to me - -

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On their death bed, nobody ever said, "Gee I wish I'd spent more time at work!"

'68 Sprite 1275
'76 Midget 1500

The item is excellent!!!

The spin-on oil filter adaptors sold in the UK for TR5/6/250 Innsbruck 2000/2.5PI /GT6 etc fit to the block in place of the orig oil filter housing assy and turn the oil filter through 90 deg. so it hangs down, rather than being bolted sideways to the oil gallery.  This means the oil filter is full of oil when you start up, rather than part drained. This eliminates the 'death rattle' as the engine starts.

Here is a photo from the Moss Europe catalogue pages of TR6 - the item shewn is with oil cooler adaptors.

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=6961

And yes, a filter with a non return valve incorporated makes good sense. Get the right sized filter or it will hit your LHD steering column.

Oil filter change is so much easier and a lot less messy with this spin on conversion kit -

You still have to drop the oil out the sump plug though - unless you employ some suction arrangement to get the oil out through the dip stick tube.

 

Hope this helps

Peter W

 

Every car I've ever owned uses an oil pump to pump oil up to the top of the engine. I blame gravity for this misfortune. If you think that putting a spin on oil filter adapter will magically make this system work any differently on your car, it will not. The canister adapter is actually a better system where as it leaves more oil in your sump at all times. There is never oil sitting idle in the filter when the engine is not running and none being stored when it's running because of the horizontal design. Since I don't have to change my oil every time I drive my car, I see no need to worry about changing a canister filter once a year.

TR6IX has a good point. Good and valid reasons to change to "spin-on" filters are the need for an oil cooler and because the spin-on filter filters better than the original.

As for changing the oil without removing the oil drain plug, there is a drain plug up-grade that is a small petcock that allows you to do that. I have one on my MGA, but I am not sure if they make one for a TR-6.  If Moss doesn’t carry it, you might try Victoria British.