Moss Motors, Ltd

Finally, after a long winter...I have my garage back!  If you've been following my posts, you'll know that i have been having lots of trouble bleeding my clutch.  At the end of the season last year I was ready to pull the engine to get into the clutch and see what might be going on in there.  Unfortunatly, I lose my garage in the winter time so that my wife can park her car in it to keep it out of the snow.  now that I have the garage back, I did not hesitate to start pulling the engine and working again on my MGB.  It took me 4 days and 10 hours to get the engine out of the car...not too bad for a rookie I think.  

So, the engine is out and the gearbox is removed, exposing the clutch.  I have not started to take the clutch apart yet because I have to go to work tonight.  Everything so far looks to be in good shape, I am expecting that the pressure plate is frozen to the flywheel.

 

joel

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1976 MGB with a 1977 engine

I have removed the clutch, and sure enough, the clutch disk was stuck to the flywheel.  I was able to pull it off quite easily, though this must have been my problem all along.  I am wondering now, if the clutch disk and the flywheel need to be replaced, or if they can be cleaned up somehow without ruining them.  any help is greatly appreciated.

thanks, joel

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1976 MGB with a 1977 engine

I

Good job pulling the engine.

 

Unless the flywheel is scored from a highly worn disk exposing a rivet, it could be cleaned with a scotch pad or 400 grit sandpaper. But just like brake rotors a little surface rust is okay, the clutch disk will remove it quickly.

 

If the flywheel is rust pitted or scored, take it to a machine shop. The machinist will remove the dowels and resurface the wearing area to a beautiful flat surface.

 

As to the clutch…. if I spent 4 days removing the engine, I would seriously consider replacing the entire clutch; pressure plate, disk and throw out bearing. I have reused clutch components, but only after close inspection. I have always replaced the throw out bearing, it seems to be area of highest wear. By the way, the MGB clutch will normally last around 80,000 miles.   

 

Is it leaking any oil from the rear engine seal? If so this would be a perfect time to replace it.

 

By the way, I had the clutch freeze to the flywheel a few years ago. I used the floor jack rear axle method, here’s a link to this method.  http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/clutch/ct_104.htm

 

The flywheel just looks like it has surface rust on it from being stuck together.  I was thinking about replacing the rear enhine seal since i do have oil leaks somewhere.  All of the clutch components look new.  There is no wear on the throw out bearing...My father in law replaced the clutch many years ago, but the car just sat without being driven, so the clutch never really got any use to be worn.  

What about the clutch disk?  can this still be used or cleaned up.  or would it just be a good idea to replace this part?

Last year, I tried the floor jack method numerous times with no success...thus the reason for pulling the engine.

 

thanks,

joel

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1976 MGB with a 1977 engine

If it looks good, reuse it; especially since you know the car's history.

I would clean the disk with a non-petroleum based engine cleaner, such as castrol superclean or purple power. This stuff really dissolves rust well.

 

Before Taking anything more of the engine apart, I am trying to clean it up a bit so that I can paint it and make it look nice again.  I had to take the exhuast manifold off to get the catalytic converter off and snapped 2 bolts already and 2 others, I still can't get out.  I have been looking at parts that I plan to replace in the moss catalog and some of the parts have 2 item numbers...1 for a 3 main engine, and 1 for a 5 main engine...What does that mean?  how do I know what I have?  I think, according to the moss catalog, that everything made after 1965 is a 5 main engine...Is this correct?  Also, I was wondering about paint, I'm sure there is speacial engine paint for this, but is there any specific colors that are normally used for certain parts?  and is there any parts that I should not paint, due to hot temps.?  While I have the engine out, I want to take my time and do things right so that  once I put it back in, I can leave it in there for a few years at least.  

 

thanks,

joel

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1976 MGB with a 1977 engine

Unless someone changed out the engine for an early 3 main (unlikely), you have the 5 main.  You can confirm the engine type by checking the engine id plate on the right side of the block (spark plug side). It is an aluminum tag secured by press rivets.   Your engine id number should start with 18V.  Also check out the Moss Catalog, it has an excellent engine production data section.

 

For 1977 the engine was painted matte black. As far as the best paint, engine paint such as Dupli-Color engine enamel works best.  This paint can handle the heat, it dries fast, and provides a slick sealed surface; making for easy engine cleaning later.

 

About the only thing I would not paint is the exhaust manifold.

 

If you go to MG car shows or surf the net, you will find MGB owners, especially the later rubber bumper models, changing the engine color. My Chartreuse 1976 MGB, (the same color as yours), now has Dupli_color Ford Red #206 engine paint with the exception of the tappet covers; they are  Rustolumn Black Satin. I use the black satin on a lot of other parts, the pedal box, header, radiator surround etc.

 

Good luck with your MG

thANKS FOR THE INFO, mgb 76.  i FIGURED i HAD A 5 MAIN, BUT JUST WANTED TO BE SURE.  

Is there anything that I can do to the exhaust manifold to protect it?  I noticed in the moss catalog that it is not available, and can't be replaced.  It would seem out of place if it looks old while everything else in the engine is newly painted.

 

joel

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1976 MGB with a 1977 engine

Well there are better solutions such as having a ceramic coating applied, but I don't even want to know what this would cost.

 

There are high temperature paints for headers such as "Factory Manifold Gray POR 15", this is the best bet.

 

What have I used? Well please don't laugh! I recently used barbeque grill paint, you know the black paint for backyard grills, on some old headers and it turned out okay. Some of the paint at the top of the header where it bents down after exiting the head bubbled up and flaked off.  The paint on the down tubes and collector are still intact. But overall, I was pleased with the results.

 

Oh, if you paint them be ready for a lot of smoke on start up.

I painted the cast manifold on my MGB using one of the high temperature paints from an auto parts store - I chose a silver colour. It has survived reasonably well and still looked OK - but not pristine -  when I had the engine out a year later.

Ed

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I want my MGB

Thanks for the info guys.  It'll all come in handy once I am ready to paint.  

Last night I tried to get the flywheel off, I want to replace the rear oil seals, Had lots of trouble getting the bolts loosened.  Managed to get 4 of them free while 2 are still tight and won't budge.  Unfortunately, they are getting rounded off and is making it even more difficult.  I will try again tonight after work.  even my impact wouldn't budge any of these bolts.

 

joel

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1976 MGB with a 1977 engine

Flywheel bolts can be a pain, as the heads are so short. I've heard several folks say they ground the face of a "spare" socket to remove the internal chamfer, so that there's full grip on the bolt head. This will reduce the chance of slippage and rounding them off.

Do plan on replacing the bolts and lockring

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I want my MGB

I got them suckers out last night.  tore them bolt heads up, but their out and the flywheel is off.  I do plan ( prtty much Have to) on replacing the bolts and lockring.  probably tack the rear engine plate off tonight and check the rear oil seals.  then I can order my long list of parts from MOSS.

I'll keep you updated.

joel

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1976 MGB with a 1977 engine

Joe - great to hear you made progress!

Do check the oil seal and the sealing surface on the crank. If there's a groove on the crank, from wear caused by the old seal, consider fitting a Speedi Sleeve - they work wonders!

Cheers,

Ed

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I want my MGB

All,

While we are always tempted to whip out the old impact wrench for this sort of thing, it's important to remember that a properly sized socket with a long breaker bar (tommy bar in Jolly Ole) will actually deliver more torque to the fastener. Over the years, I've found that most stuck fasteners respond to careful set up and steady application of torque. Impact wrenches are great for speed, not so much for strength. In most applications they don't solve as many problems as they create. They are a great tool in tire shops and pit stops.

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon