Moss Motors, Ltd

Hi again..

 I thought I'd start a new string, as this has evolved from just fixing a crank journal to pretty much a complete engine rebuild. I'll be doing all engine bearings, rings, and valve guides. Looking for a camshaft now. Will replace tappets to go with it...

My next question: how difficult is it to install my own valve guides? I successfully removed a few, but wonder how to press in the new ones without damaging them..? Any tips/techniques? Or is it best to let the shop do this?

 thanks!

-p

p,

It can be done, but it's not worth the pain and likelihood of messing up the head or guide. I've been doing this work for forty years, and it's cheaper and quicker to let the machinist do it. Besides, if he doesn't have specs.he'll need to see how the old ones were installed heightwise for reference. Let him do it.

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

While you're at it have him do the whole rebuild and save yourself from some major agro. These engines are not complicated but there is a lot of hard won skill that goes into rebuilding them The kind of thing tthat is not in books.

If you want it to run right the first time with no leaks or noises have someone who has done it before do it or be ready for the worst.

Just my two cents of experience... sorry to be a wet blanket. Good Luck

It's a little late... I'm committed to do this myself.

 Do you care to elaborate on your experience?

Thanks,

-p

Well here's my experinece. I am not a neophyte as I have been working on Sprites as a hobby for the better part of 30 years and MG's for even longer. Of three people I know who have rebuilt these engines in the past 5 years all have had either massive oil leaks or other issues. My own was oil pressure and I think there is one other person on this forum who had a similar problem. On another forum that I subscribe to another gentleman with a lot of experience had an engine that basically just pumped oil onto his driveway after a rebuild. He had pulled the engine so many times he could do it in a ridiculous time, like an hour or something. At least one other Sprite owner that I talked to at Lime Rock had a similar experinece which he solved with massive amounts of sealer after a rebuild. This on an otherwise pristinely restored car.Just my 2 cents,  just be realistic and manage your expectations the first time you fire it up. As I said, this shouldn't prevent you from trying it. 

I'm sorry on my last post I should have said what the mistakes were ( I think) so at least you will have the benefit of my experience.

First, all of the cautions you hear about keeping the work area clean are probably understated. I wrecked a bearing when some metal chaff got into a rod bearing. The engine had been tanked, cleaned and kept clean after a re bore. No one had any clue where the metal came from.

Second pay A LOT of attention to the rear and front main bearing seals. The rear will leak not matter what you do so its the differeence between a huge leak and a smaller one.

 

There's probably a lot of other things too but those were my mistakes FWIW

Thanks for the tips, Radibob..

 Ahhh, yes... the infamous rear oil seal. I do need to learn as much as possible about how to (try to) seal it. Any and all tips on how to handle this issue is/are welcome!

Thanks again,

-p