Moss Motors, Ltd

I'm sure everyone has dealt with the oil leaking from the rear slinger type seal. I have taken my engine out 4 times in the past 30 days with no luck. I now see Moss has a rear oil conversion seal #297-655 for $300 not in the catalog but online! It states the the crank doesn't need to come out but when I look at the parts included in the kit it shows the upper cast piece with the 3 mounting holes that attach to the block which you can't change because when you back out the 3 bolts with an open end wrench the hit the back of the crank flange. My question is has anyone done this conversion? did the crank have to come out? or could  you recommend a different type of repair.

Desperate in NY 

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Paul Macerone

1968 MG Midget

I did my 1275 it was easy to do the back plate has to come off as well as the flywheel. Every then came off the way they said it would and install was easy. The instruction also recommended removing the packing on the timing change breather. I did not want to do this so I just added a vent to the blank manual fuel pump cover for better venting.

The reason I had to use this kit was I added a Webber carb which upset the vacuum that was needed to keep the oil from leaking.

 

Alan, so you did buy the $300 Moss oil conversion kit and install it? or did you just add crankcase venting.

I also have the Webber 2 bbl conversion and I know the engine needs some crankcase venting.

 

Thanks Paul in NY

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Paul Macerone

1968 MG Midget

Paul, I did both I do not have any leaks now. I think the venting did more to stopping the leak then the seal but I added it just to be sure.

Alan, I took your advise and concentrated on crankcase venting. I drilled the valve cover and installed a grommet and small PCV and drilled then tapped a hole in the Webber manifold and used a brake bleeder for the fitting and hooked the hose to the PCV valve. I just took it foe a 50 mile drive and no leaks with the stock slinger seal. Now I need to improve my brakes

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Paul Macerone

1968 MG Midget