As
most of our readers know, Moss Motors sells a wide range of Rust Repair
Panels. We are often asked how easy it is for the amateur to install
them. Provided you have the right equipment, a reasonable level of
mechanical aptitude, and a car that is not totally rusted-out, the
procedure is quite straightforward. Using these pre-shaped panels is
infinitely preferable to trying to repair rusted sheet metal from
sheet-stock, so, even if the job requires the services of a
professional body shop, Moss repair panels cut costs and make for a
much better job.
As
a guide to how easy the job is for amateur restorer, we asked Peter
Cosmides to detail his experiences with installing rear fender repair
panels on an MGB. As you will read, a very satisfactory job can be done
at home. Peter presented the procedure as a series of steps as follows:
1)
Collect the equipment necessary to do the job. This includes: An
electric high-speed grinder with cutting disc attachment; a hammer and
sharp cold chisel; gas welding equipment; your Moss Motors rust repair
panels; a piece of chalk or welder's marking crayon, jack, and stands.
2)
To prevent heat damage to the car's interior, remove the seats, peel
back the carpets from the area around the inner fender, and buy
yourself a candy bar with the change you found under the seat. Jack up
and support the corner of the car and remove the wheel. Remember, if
you're working inside a garage with welding equipment, remove cans of
gasoline and make sure your home-heater pilot light is alight (or else
turned off completely). Take your repair panel and place it over the
area it will replace. With your chalk or crayon, carefully mark the
fender where it is to be cut. Be sure to allow for the 1/2" of the
fender that has to cover the lip of the repair panel! Cutting with a
disc grinder is much better than using your welding torch, because the
heat will warp the fender. Care is important when cutting; one wrong
cut and you've got another repair job! The inner rocker panel protrudes
inside the fender; don't cut into it! You might want to (a) Cut a
square window in the rusted section you are about to remove to see
what's inside and (b) make your first cut about 1/2" below your marked
line, so that you can trim to fit.
4)
The top line you marked is the only place that needs to be cut. The
other edges are spot-welded and can be separated with your hammer and
chisel (or by drilling out the welds).
5)
Once the old panel has been removed, you can wire-brush away any
surface rust, dirt, etc., that is exposed. If you find any other rust
holes in the inner area, it's decision time! Professional repair, small
patches welded in, or fiberglass patching might be needed, depending on
the extent of what you find.
6)
Now you can begin fitting the new repair panel. When eveything is
trimmed and tidied so that the new panel fits to your satisfaction,
clamp it in place with vise grips or C-clamps. You then carefully weld
it in place, making sure you do not concentrate in one spot long enough
to warp the panel.
7)
After the welding is finished, grind the welds down and, using body
filler, surface the join area nice and smooth. It is now ready for
priming and painting. (Don't forget the inside, rust-inhibiting paint
or rubberized under-coating will help prevent you having to go through
all this again in the future!)