First gasket set went over like a lead balloon... Leaked way worse... Dropped the pan again and sure'nuff, the rear cork strip had slipped caty-corner/pinched while installing. So I ordered the Payton set from Moss... tediously cleaned and carefully re-done-did everything again as previously suggested/prescribed (I used a little non-hardening gasked maker under the Payton rubber in the end/curved channels - error?) and bolted it back up and let it set up for about three days before had chance to get back to it. Today I recharged the battery while wrapping up a few other wiring incidentals and then lit her off. about 15 - 20 seconds passed with nary a drop, and then... back to a steady drip... I shut her down cleaned everything and even sprayed/dried the suspected rear leak site w/brake parts cleaner and wiped it all clean with a clean rag on a thin long screw driver. I then snubbed every thing a 1/2 twist tighter and booted her back up. BUT the leak is even worse (overtightened? 
), AND it appears (using a flashlight and now that it's all "clean" up in that "tight spot" twixt the rear wall of the sump pan and just forward of the rear engine plate that the tranny is bolted to) that it's leaking from more than one spot(!?). It's obviously leaking from the rear oil pan gasket somewhere around the rubber channel seal, but with the aid of the flashlight I could plainly see that oil appears to burping into the afore mentioned "tight spot" as if it's coming from the transmission side of rear engine plate and running down the forward side of that plate at about the same rate that the presumed pan gasket leak is leaking...
What should I do now? I've seen mention about some shops not sealing "rear main bearing caps" upon assembly and "supposedly" this engine had been freshly rebuilt by PO's PO... I've also seen comments about oil pump housings leaking. Some DPO or another had used only silicone gasket maker on a few other items i've discovered so far... now I'm wondering about that oil pump seal. The rear head to block mating surface appears dry so I don't think that's a leak source...
Questions: Is there a way to determine if the "rear main bearing cap" was sealed by looking at it with the oil pan off? Could it be accessed and sealed from below as a separate item or would the whole crank shaft have to be removed to do it right?
Question 2: If/should it be the oil pump housing seal, can I 
possibly remove the radiator, support the engine with a floor jack, unbolt the engine from the tranny, undo the rear exhaust hanger, and then (while perched on the jack) move the engine forward and up a bit far enough that I could gain enough access the oil pump to check/re-new it's gasket? I really don't want to have to "pull" the whole powerpack and I'm figuring on replacing all the radiator hoses anyway and it looks like it needs new engine mounts as well...
Thoughts/suggestions appreciated.
Edward G