Moss Motors, Ltd

71 BGT

Car was restored in '91.  Condensor and points replaced, shaft had no play..  Probably driven 10k miles since.

Runs fine.  Replaced Cap / Rotor / wires plugs since.

Vacuum advance feels loose - can be wiggled perpendicular to the Distributor body.   Is this normal ?  Should I replace anything ?  Convert to Pertronix ?

Thanks!

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'71 BGT, Autocross focused

Closer,

  Just discovered THE guy to build distributors. Contact Jeff Schlemmer @ Advanced Distributors. (www.advanceddistributors.com)

Got my diizy back from him today for my 72 MGBGT Autocrosser. Custom job set up for Weber DCOE with no vac advance unit.

2 day service, $100.00, beautifully rebuilt and polished.

Will let you know how it runs this coming Sunday. Gonna go chase cones........... 

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"Cogito ergo Zoom"
"Love your freedom? Thank a Veteran"

Jeff is a great guy...I talked to him and took him up on a complete redo...

Curve, rebuild and Pertronix. 

Will try to drop it in this week.

 

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'71 BGT, Autocross focused

Got my dizzy back from Jeff, dropped it in set the timing. Went and ran autocross Sunday. All I can say is WOW!!!!!!!

$100 well spent! Car runs great, better idle and acceleration.

Jeff is The Man!!!!!!

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"Cogito ergo Zoom"
"Love your freedom? Thank a Veteran"

I dropped in the Dizzy from Jeff...HIGH Quality, polished, pro, no play.  VERY EXCITED.

Of course the car wouldn't start.  Uhh!!

After verifying spark at the plug, I knew we had a fuel issue.  Traced down the typical broken wire connector on the fender near the fuse box.  OK - here we go.

Fired her up and got the timing set, but the car seemed to be misfiring - big time!  After checking the Pertronix FAQ - it said often low voltage is an issue and to try running a wire straight to the battery as a temp fix.  If that fixes it, try a suitable switched 12v lead to the coil.

So, since this an MGB and the fuse box is about 6" from the coil, I made a jumper from the fuse box straight to the coil.  Instantly - no more misfire.

So for everyone else who strives for overkill...

Should I go ahead and make a dedicated 12-14 gauge wire to the battery for feeding the coil (switched by a relay) ?

Your input is appreciated!

 

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'71 BGT, Autocross focused

Closer,

 I've installed more Pertronix units than I can count, and this is the first time I've heard of anyone having this problem.

What kind of coil are you using?

You should only have three wires on the coil, The black from the unit to the neg. side of the coil, the red wire from the unit to the positive side of the coil, and the original white wire  from the cars harness to the positi side of the coil. Take off the white wire and check the voltage to it with the key on.

Let us know......

 

Mike 

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"Cogito ergo Zoom"
"Love your freedom? Thank a Veteran"

Coil = Lucas Sport from Moss 

I converted the tach to electronic, so I have a tach signal wire going to the (-) side.  Other than that, everything is the same.

I will put a meter on the (hot) wire from the fact harness and measure the voltage.

I was shocked to see the immediate difference when I took a wire straight from the fuse box to the coil vs. going through the old fact wiring.

 
Should be noted, the tach is now DEAD ON compared to before - used to jump around - leading me to believe the Dizzy timing is now NICE and Smoooooth.

 

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'71 BGT, Autocross focused

Are you using a ballast resistor?

Anything else additional using power from ignition circuit? ( White wire from stock harness? )

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"Cogito ergo Zoom"
"Love your freedom? Thank a Veteran"

No resistor - just the white wire from the fact harness near the alternator.

I will try checking voltage today.  Going to leave a trickle charger on the battery for a few hours to make sure it is top shape.  Battery voltage could be low due to car sitting.

However, just bringing a straight shot wire from the ignition side of the fuse box to the coil made an instant difference.  It was missing so bad I though I screwed up and reversed a plug wire.

 

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'71 BGT, Autocross focused

Closer_2001:

Coil = Lucas Sport from Moss 

I converted the tach to electronic, so I have a tach signal wire going to the (-) side.  Other than that, everything is the same.

I will put a meter on the (hot) wire from the fact harness and measure the voltage.

I was shocked to see the immediate difference when I took a wire straight from the fuse box to the coil vs. going through the old fact wiring.

Should be noted, the tach is now DEAD ON compared to before - used to jump around - leading me to believe the Dizzy timing is now NICE and Smoooooth.

 

There was a thread about a guy with a bounceing tach.  Sounds like this could also apply to his problem.

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72 MGB 80 TR8
Pittsburgh PA

Thanks - checked the thread.  The tach wasn't flailing around, I was just commenting on a less than glass smooth idle.  The new distributor has a MUCH smoother idle.

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'71 BGT, Autocross focused

OK - false alarm.

I think the battery was just low enough that it wouldn't fire the first time around.

Voltage from fact wire - engine running off jumper (12.7 V)

Voltage from jumper wire - engine running fine off fact wire (12.6 V)

Went ahead and converted back to using stock wire.
 

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'71 BGT, Autocross focused

Closer,

 Glad you got it solved! Low battery voltge will mess up electronic stuff, that's for sure.

Now get out there and chase some cones! After Jeff worked his magic on my dizzy, I noticed better acceleration thru the slaloms and coming out of corners. Hope you find the same!

Remember: see the cones, be the cones, don't hit the cones! 

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"Cogito ergo Zoom"
"Love your freedom? Thank a Veteran"

Thanks Mike for the encouragement...

I plan to mate up the Peco Friday, and get out and drive on Sat.

Be the cone, be the cone....  :-)
 

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'71 BGT, Autocross focused

Closer,

 Lucky you! I don't have another event until April 22nd. I'm jonesing for some cones.

 Oh well, gives me time to install new rear shocks and , dare I say it, new Roller tip rocker arms! Look out Miata pilots!!!!!!!!!

Best of luck!

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"Cogito ergo Zoom"
"Love your freedom? Thank a Veteran"