Moss Motors, Ltd

I am about ready to install the rear oil seal conversion and Speedi-sleeve to my '50 TD and would like to know if there are any tips, tricks, or got-you's that I need to watch for.

 DonC

Have  Have a look at Barney Gaylord’s site: http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/rearaxle/ra101.htm.

He is t He is the leading authority on MGAs. I don’t think putting a Speedy Sleeve on a TD axle would be much different.

Don:  I installed the same kit on my '51 TD.  Somewhere on the "T"series forum, I've posted my blog of how things went.

http://www.mossmotors.com/forum/forums/thread/2242.aspx

The seal lip rides at the very forward edge of the crankshaft flange surface.  Install  the Speed-i-Sleeve so that it overhangs the crankshaft surface at least 1/8" forward of the flange fwd edge.  Motorbill66 has a clever spacer he builds to move the seal holder assembly aft a bit.

The aft bearing cap will need some serious milling to get the rear surface flat and square.  The bearing holder assembly is bonded to the cap, so it really needs to be squared up properly.

When you install the flywheel, the bolts may protude forward enough to impact the seal holder.  You may need to shorten the bolts a tad.

I was not impressed with the instructions that came with the kit, but that was several years ago.  Kelvin said he would update things, so hopefully you've got the revised instructions.  some steps were out of order, and sealers were no longer available.  The blue stuff works.

Check in with Motorbill66.  He's done a ton of these kits at his restoration business, and is very generous with his time and knowledge.

Hi guys,

These kits are somewhat unfairly maligned. Most of the problems stem from not understanding the criticality of sealing things that were left unsealed with the old "oil screw" scheme which must be disabled to install the lip seal. However, as Dick suggests, there is one chronic problem with the location of the seal itself.

I have, as Dick indicates, come up with a solution which makes the kit more or less foolproof in this particular area. It's implementation is just a bit too much to describe here, but if you'll get in touch with me through the private contact function, I'm sure we can work something out.

Bill Wardlow

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

Thanks for the info.  It looks like I have old instructions since it shows revised on 01/06.  If the main cap needs to be machined, would it be prudent to take it back to the machine shop to do this or would attacking it with a grinder be sufficient?

Dick, it looks like the corrections you suggest are mainly put it all together and make sure everything fits before final assembly.  Since I just got the engine back from the shop, it looks like I should do all of this before I start reassembling the block.

Don C

You'll be pulling the rear cap on and off, and same with the crankshaft, about a dozen times to get everything squared up.  My joke about the bearing cap being cast by pre-Industrial Age Druit priests after an all-night ale binge pretty well sums up the primitive casting quality.  The answer to your question depends on just how awful the backside of the bearing cap is and how much metal needs to be shaved off.  I took the cap into a shop for the initial grind, but ended up finessing the final fitting myself with a belt sander.  The key is to get a square, smooth base surface for the seal housing.  Motorbill66 does his grinding inhouse, as he has a nice industrial belt sander that can be trued to 90 degrees.

Be really careful with the flywheel bolts and alignment pins.  If they protrude forward of the crankshaft flywheel mounting flange, they might contact the seal housing, making short work of all your efforts ...  Been done several times apparently.

And a "Been there,. didn't work" tip - Install the timing chain cover with the front lip seal installed, first.  Then "offer up" the sump.  Don't forget the little oil slinger disc on the front of the crankshaft, otherwise the front seal will leak.

Compared to the casting and machining standards of a modern engine, these old XPAG motors give new meaning to "automotive archeology" ...

Hey guys,

Actually, Dick, we've moved beyond even the big grinder these days. I've built a jig which allows us to use the mill and get that surface dead nuts on. Unfortunately, blocks and caps vary, or I'd offer this as a mail order service, along with providing my spacer ring and machining of the flywheel to accommodate it, and special flywheel bolts and pins. Oh well. put that project on the stack. The ladder's over there.....

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon