Moss Motors, Ltd

Follow on to my "Earth" post/question. I'm sorting out and labeling all the conectors on a new Sprite MkII/III Main Wiring harness that I just purchased from Moss. I'm referencing the Haynes Figure 10.20 wiring diagram on pg 197 and have isolated/identifed/labled every wire (at both ends) with the exception of two that do not appear to be on the schematic . Would anyone have an idea about these two stray items:

Brown wire (N), smaller gauge, spade connector, originating under dash and appearing to exit the loom such that it would be attached to Fuse block (note: the schematic actually shows a brown wire off of fuse post 1 that ends/terminates in a open connector? Any idea what that's supposed to connect too?).

White wire w/Red stripe (WR), smaller gauge, spade connector, also originates under dash and runs/is loomed closely with the heavy gauge brown wire (N) run that is attached at the Voltage Regulator post "A" and runs out by itself to the "+" terminal of the Battery.

 Any thoughts appreciated,

 TIA, Edward G.

 

While you're waiting for someone who really knows, I can tell you this. A white wire with a red stripe is identified as being a wire related to activating the starter. Ignition switch to starter solenoid or starter relay or starter relay to solenoid.

I'm not sure on your particular harness but, there are very few brown wires and only one red/white. The red/white is for an electrically operated starter solenoid and runs betwee the solenoid and a dash mounted button. It sounds like they have provided the wire in case you have converted from the original cable operated switch to a solenoid, a fairly common conversion. Your car should have a brown between the regulator A post and the fuse block and another between the A post and the battery or the battery side of the starter switch. The lighter gauge brown wire is something of a mystery. My best guess is that it is to provide power to that dash mounted starter push button that you might have added. If you have not made that change then I think you can just mark those wires as such and ignore them.

 

---

Bayless
Never express yourself more clearly than you can think
'48 Prefect
'67 Sprite (project)

Thanks Guys! Perfect/Helpful info and further borne out/verifed by (doh!) looking at the later model wiring diagrams! Question:

 Suppose "someone" was re-wiring a car to this "Mk.II-ish" configuration and "his" car actually has a later/electrically excited starter solenoid, and "he" wanted to install a momentary push button (in lieu of the pull cable) like you said you are aware has been done. Where would you suggest/advocate this wiring be connected? At present I've essintially replicated a vague Mk.I-II "dash" layout out of wood, but also have acquired a Bugeye combo light/igntion switch (w/no momentary "start" pole) that I want to retain and had already been intending on installing an associated "push button" for starting anyway/coincidentaly. To my "shade tree logic" I was/am intending on running/piggy-backing a wire from the "NU" side/hookup connector of the ingniton switch over to the new push button start switch, and from there back down to the starter solenoid (via my nifty existing "WR" wire!). Anyone see any issue/problem with that approach? Should I alternately run a separate wire for the switch on it's own from the "A1" pole from the Volt Regulator? Also: "A1" is only energized when the ignition is on, right? What about the various other poles? Is there a break-down on that out there? I ask because I'm thinking/concerned that my as planned route might see the "starter button" (but not coil) as potentially always energized...

 Thanks again,

 Edward G

Both A and A1 are hot all the time. You can run a brown (or brown/blue) from the brown/blue at the ignition switch to your starter push and the the white/red to the solenoid as you suggested. There is no need to run a separate wire from the regulator. Since that NU is alwasy hot, the starter push will work with the key off. If you want it to operate only with the key on then run a white wire from the ignition post where the other white wires connect and to the starter push instead of the above brown. Either way, you will comply with the existing color coding. You could also, of course, locate a later ignition switch that has the builtin start position in which case the WR connects directly to it. BTW, it can sometimes be handy to have the starter available when the ignition is off.

 

---

Bayless
Never express yourself more clearly than you can think
'48 Prefect
'67 Sprite (project)

Thanks again enfoprefect! Helpful and has already influenced my approach. I'm getting pretty deep into my "retro rewire project" - If I could impose and ask you/others a couple-three of more questions regarding the dash wiring please.

Is the "ignition warning lamp" always on when ignition is on/runing?

Could one omit the "pannel lamp switch" and wire all those insturment lamps straight to the light switch (or would it be to much of a route to ground and as such affect the juice getting to the headlamps? If'n so would a small resistor on each fix/avoid that? how many ohms?

My as situated Sprite has a voltage stabilizer dilly-bopper under the dash, my MkII/retro approach wiring schematic dosen't show one. Should I omit it or would it be benificial to wire it back up/in with the new harness?

I've acquired and intend to use a bugeye combo light/ignition switch in my project. Could someone familiar with one describe it's intended in-dash orientation? Is the key apperture/entrance slit (presumably) vertical when the ign is off and key removed? AND sorry for being so dense, but in checking the contact cross paths (ignition on-off, light switch on-off) on this puppy with a continuity checker has only served to confuse me... Can you describe/illustrate via "land marks", and looking straight at the butt of this thing, which pole is intended to be the switches "A" pole with with the brown/blue wire running from Volt Reg pole "A1". And just what does the "S" on the bezel/knob stand for anyway?

Thanks a ton again,

 Edward

 

1) The ignition lamp should come on when the key is switched on and go out when the generator output is sufficient to charge the battery or run the electrical system. If it stays on then either the generator/regulator output is lower than the battery voltage or the light is wired wrong.

2) Would you ever really want to dim the panel lights on a Lucas system? Actually, you can bypass that switch without any negative results.

3) I don't know or remember what year your car is but if it has the voltage stabilizer then it probably has the later fuel gauge which does require the stabilizer. If you have the earlier gauge then you will not use the stabilizer. Also, the tank sending unit is different for the two gauges.

4) I don't have a bugeye ignition/light switch to refer to but my bugeye wiring diagram shows the following.

Post A gets a brown/blue wire from A1 on the regulator. Post H gets a blue wire to the headlight dimmer switch. Post gets a white wire to the ignition warning lamp and a white wire to A3 on the fuse block. Post 5 gets a red wire to the panel light switch and another red wire to a connector that eventually feeds the side Lights (parking lights), tail lights and tag lamp.

5) According to Lucas practice, the switch should have those posts labeled. If not, you can experiment some with your continuity tester and determine which is which. Again, according to my diagram, when looking at the back, post 10 is top-left, post 5 is top-right, post H is bottom-left and post A is bottom-right. The "S" on the bezel indicates "Side Lights" or parking lights. Enjoy.

 

---

Bayless
Never express yourself more clearly than you can think
'48 Prefect
'67 Sprite (project)