Moss Motors, Ltd

Howdy all, relative noob here. I've got a '68 sprite that's been hibernating for some time in my garage. I've got a couple of weeks off and I'm just about to start to address a myraid of wiring issues and have a new harness on the way. The car's cute enough but it not at all original - it has rear fender flares installed that I like, but there are other issues. No interior and the wind up windows and regulators were removed with both doors capped with a strip of alumimum. The DPO had been going to "race it" but stalled in the mid '80's and it had sat, got covered, got buried, etc-etc, since. DPO/Some one had replaced the dash with a slab of polyurethane dunked wood that an original-ish type Speedometer was lopsidedly mounted in and an aftermarked elect tach was poked into a hole infront of the passenger area. This speedo appears suspect. It's case is dented, it's full of grit and things that rattle and the face vibrates/wobbles like it's only secure on one side. The fuel gauge apears inop and I just discovered that the H2O temp gauge tube was cut/crimped with wire cutters or something of that nature right as it exits the back of the gauge (!!!). The original ignition switch was disabled and an aftermarket ingnition switch had been added to that "radio/accessory" box infront of the shifter.

With the extent of the non-original-izing mods that have already been done, my take/plan is to replace the dash with a wood one of my own design and also somewhat replicate a MK1 dash layout arrangement in the process. I've already finnessed the bad igniton switch/lock "pod" off the column.

Long story short/My queston: With as far gone as my gauges are I'd like to just buy a matching aftermarket gauges kit from the get-go, but wanted info and advice about the suitability. The "Autometer" types ( http://www.egauges.com/vdo_ind.asp?Type=Mech_Speedo&Series=Tra_Chrome&PN=ATM-2492 ) have caught my eye but would their mechanical speedo work? I'm not normally that lucky... the web info says: Mechanical. Resettable Trip odometer. Includes 5/8" - 18 threaded cable input with .104" square drive. Does that sound like it would jive? Suggestons? AND with regards to the fuel gauges that they offer, would any of you know the Ohms range of the Sprites regular stock fuel sending unit please?

 Thanks in advance!

 Edward G.

The aftermarket speedometer will work but you'll have to have a custom cable made up with the correct connector for the transmission and the gauge installed. The gauge end fitting for a Smiths or Jeager speedometer won't fit up to a standard type speedometer. That shouldn't be  a problem though, most good speedometer shops can make cables to order. As for the sending units matching that's another problem though. With all the used MG gauges available and new ones in the catalogs if you want I personally would just use the stock gauges in the new dash. Just eliminates a lot of hassles with sending units and cables and still will do the job very nicely. I built a custom dash for my Midget and used the original gauges along with modern GM switch gear for the lights etc. Photo of the dash is shown in the article here. http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BillYoung.htm

Since the dash is quite small in area the factory dual gauge is really handy to combine oil pressure and engine temp in one gauge, and your stock wiring harness or at least what's left of it will hook up easier to the original gauges and still follow the original schematic for future troubleshooting.

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'73 Midget (V6)
'59 MGA (I6) under construction
'73 Lotus Europa

"There is a fine line between a hobby and mental illness"

Thanks Bill! Nice work on your stuff by the way. Do you have any pics of how you routed the exhaust and all on that 2.8? How on earth did you mate it to the transmission? (I've got a 3.4 with 6 miles on it just sitting in my garage that likes to "reach out" and bang my ankles every time I walk by... hmmmm....).

 Also: Do you/anyone know the Ohm range (empty-full) on the fuel sending unit?

 Thanks again!

It doesn't show well in the photos, but I built my own headers that run down on either side through the openings between the main frame rails and the inner fender panels. From there they each go into a slip connection on a "Y" pipe that feeds the catalytic converter which is mounted just underneath about where the parking brake mechanism is located and from there a couple of 90 degree bends takes it straight back to a small muffler and a Monza tip. From the collectors back it's all in 2 1/4" tubing. The transmission is the T5 from the original Camaro that also supplied the engine as well as a lot of other parts. I don't know the resistance of the sending unit, used the original and didn't have to consider any mismatch there so didn't check.

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'73 Midget (V6)
'59 MGA (I6) under construction
'73 Lotus Europa

"There is a fine line between a hobby and mental illness"