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Engine runs on

Last post 04-23-2009, 6:48 AM by jinshiyang. 6 replies.
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  •  01-05-2009, 9:10 PM 17564

    Engine runs on

    I recently bought a 1955 100/4 and try as I may with the ignition timing the engine continues more often than not to run on once the ignition is switched off.  It has been a long time since I got my hands dirty rebuilding engines and any advice on how to identify the cause would be welcome! David
  •  01-06-2009, 7:31 AM 17568 in reply to 17564

    Re: Engine runs on

    Try the basics first, are the plugs clean and gapped correctly, is the vacuum advance ok?

    If the ignition timing and dwell are spot-on AND the plugs are healthy start looking at the mixture or other carb problems such as leaks.


    On their death bed, nobody ever said, "Gee I wish I'd spent more time at work!"

    '68 Sprite 1275
    '76 Midget 1500
  •  01-06-2009, 8:20 AM 17571 in reply to 17564

    Re: Engine runs on

    Dave,

    These old engines tended to run their heads kind of hot. They also were real champs at "carboning up". This combination leads to "Hot spots" of glowing carbon which tend to act as glow plugs and keep things running like a diesel. Getting your idle speed as low as possible, consistant with smooth running, will help to minimize running on. So will letting the engine idle for a minute or so before switching off. The use of premium grade fuel also sometimes helps.

    The only other solution would be what the Brits refer to as a "decoke", wherein the cylinder head is pulled and all of the deposits are removed from the valves (great time for a valve job w/ hardened seats and bronze mangenese guides, etc.), the combustion chambers, and the piston tops. Thereafter, steps can be taken to slow or prevent the build-up of further "coke".

    Run fuel system cleaner through the system now and then, for instance. There's another old trick that actually works, for the most part. Get the engine good and hot with the air cleaners off. Run the RPM up to about three thousand and mist a couple of shots of plain water into each carburetter. DON'T do this on a badly carboned up engine. Just do it to maintain one you know has been decarboned (decoked).


    Motorbill
    From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon
  •  01-06-2009, 4:43 PM 17575 in reply to 17564

    Re: Engine runs on

    Thanks for the replies, looks like I will be getting my hands dirty again, as a supplementary question has anyone considered/have a view on installing an aluminium head?

    David

  •  01-07-2009, 12:09 PM 17577 in reply to 17575

    Re: Engine runs on

    We haven't installed one of the alloy heads on a four cylinder Big Healey, but my understanding is that they are excellent in quality. You could look forward to lower engine temperatures and a lighter engine at the very least. The price is considerable, though.
    Motorbill
    From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon
  •  01-07-2009, 4:24 PM 17578 in reply to 17577

    Re: Engine runs on

    Thanks again.  Being a Brit exiled (happily) in Aus, who is the best supplier of parts from the UK?  I have used AHSpares for small items and S&C for my E-Type.  I hope this isn't a rude question!!  The only dedicated workshop in Victoria is The Healey Factory, but it is cheaper for me to import direct.
  •  04-23-2009, 6:48 AM 19094 in reply to 17564

    Re: Engine runs on

    Run fuel system cleaner through the system now and then, for instance. There's another old trick that actually works, for the most part. Get the engine good and hot with the air cleaners off. Run the RPM up to about three thousand and mist a couple of shots of plain water into each carburetter. DON'T do this on a badly carboned up engine. Just do it to maintain one you know has been decarboned (decoked).

    http://www.xhcljx.com/eng/index.php