Moss Motors, Ltd

How can a research and tell what year the engine is that's installed in a 77 MGB?  I've ordered parts from Moss Motors before using the year of the car and had mixed results.  Some fit (maybe fits all), and some did not causing me to return them for the other part number offered.

Hi mtnance.

Presumably you have the Moss catalogue handy....

In the front, on P4 & 5 of the regular catalogue section, just after all the fancy shiny stuff that you don't need yet, but crave madly, is information on production years, numbers, engine codes etc.  Bless Moss for adding this as it's really useful for some preliminary detective work.

The engine ahould have a number plate on the left side (as you face it from the front of the car). If you remove the rocker cover, you can also check the casting number on the head, and see if this matches the block. For help here try http://www.flowspeed.com/cylinder-ident.htm

Also check out sites like MG esperience http://www.mgexperience.net/ as they also have information.

 I hope that is useful,

Ed

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I want my MGB

Yes, helped alot.  Just didn't think about resources I already had.  based upon the findings, I do have a 77 engine.  Though the distributer is not.  I ordered a new cap a while back and it didn't fit because of a notch.  Must have been swapped.

 

Reason I ask about engine:  I just ordered a new water pump and upper/lower hoses and I thought I may have ordered the wrong one.  The sound has been getting worse but not yet leaking and I'd rather do the replacement under my terms and while it still relatively warm outside.

The information resources available now are great, and easy to find. I read the Moss catalogue inside out before even getting started with the maintenance manuals - there's so much in there.

It's a wise move to ditch that water pump before it ditches you - glad to hear you have the correct parts.

Cheers,

Ed

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I want my MGB

Got parts in today and have removed everything.  I've also ran the new pump for about 30 seconds on my wire wheel to "seat" it.  I also understand that I should run the engine dry for about 30 seconds before adding coolant. 

I removed all old gasket material and did not see gasket sealant.  Should the water pump be installed with or without these sealant?

I used a generic black silicone automotive sealent for my water pump gasket, and it has held up very well so far. Very little is needed, just a thin sheen each side of the gasket and "jobs a good un"

Ed

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I want my MGB

I prefer Permatex "Aviation Style" cement in the little can with the brush in the cap for this kind of paper gasket. It is an adhesive, whereas silicone tends to be a lubricant. This can cause some paper gaskets to swim about and even tear as crush loads are applied. That said, Ed and many others have had good experience with silicone cements. The newer ones certainly are better than some of the lousy jelly we used to be sold!! To each his own.

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

Finished the job (fairly easy) and used a thin coat of Permatex.  Seems to be doing fine.  I've warmed engine twice (in place) enough to cause electric fans to switch on.  Then cooled down overnight, checking for leaks.  The only thing I have found is a very small amount of "steam" at the bottom rad hose (new hose).  It's almost like a "match stick almost out" look. 

Even though this post should end here, I've posted elsewhere about replacing the broken antenna.  No one has replied.  How do you get to it?