Moss Motors, Ltd

I have found a small crack in in the exhaust portion of my 77B's intake/exhaust manifold.  These seem to be difficult come by.  The previous owner removed the catalytic convert and installes what appears to be the 1975 exhaust pipe.  My state doesn't require a catalytic converter if the car was built prior to 1990.  I have a few options and would greatly appreciate some advice. 

Option 1:  Pay 450.00 to a recommended reconditioner for a reworked manifold

Option 2:  Pay 150.00 for a sight unseen part that has sitting around for who knows how long from some guy having a "garage sale" on another site

Option 3:  Have the old one welded

Option 4:  Replace the whole set up with a separate exhaust and intake

Question 1:  Could any one point me towards a more affordable purchasing source?

Question 2:  Is welding the old manifold wise (is it safe); will it hold?

Question 3:  As stated above, Utah doesn't require a catalytic converter as long as it passes the emissions test.  However, I am an active duty Air Force member and subject relocation and not all states/countries are as forgiving of emission system modifications as Utah.  If I install a whole new separate set up, is it possible to add a cat later in the system?

Thanks in advance for any opinions.

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Dave Kiernan

www.airforce.com
www.dosomethingamazing.com

DK,

This is getting tougher,but here goes:

Option 1. I'm not sure what a "reworked" manifold is. If it has been rewelded I wouldn't trust it as far as I could throw it.

Option 2. Pig in a poke.

Option 3. See Option 1.

Option 4. This is very tempting, and will eventually result in a much better running car. However, it will cost some genuine bucks. I WOULD trust a used pre-single carb MGB manifold. They are plentiful, and along with the rest of the old style system, they flow quite well. If you could luck into some of the other pieces you need used, you might find this a not unreasonably priced alternative. Intake manifolds for the twin SU carburetters are even more plentiful than exhaust manifolds. Heck, I'd give you one for the shipping.(sorry other posters/members, this offer applies only to members of the Air Force currently residing in Utah) The only rub is the originality/legality. This, of course, is up to you. You could carefully document how all the old stuff went on and save it, I guess.

Question 1. I'm not sure what is meant by the question. If you need used parts, contact me or ebay off site, I guess. I'm not looking to establish a business on the forum. I have a brick and mortar one already that keeps me hopping. I'm sure you've seen my website.

Question 2. See answers to Options 1 and 4.

I still want to help. Let me know what I can do, and thank you again for your service.

Regards,

Bill

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

Bill thanks again for reply and thanks for your kind words about the service.

I guess reworked mean resurfaced and polished up.

Question 1 was looking for additional sources of purchase.  I've checked all the usual internet sources and local sources.

The pre-single exhaust header is too outrageous at 200.00 from Moss but I don't have any equipment for hand-fitting and port-matching.

Is there a conversion for the twin to single?  1300.00 is way out of my league (wish I had won that ebay auction, they went for 157.00).

Legality is a big question.  Like I said above, Utah doesn't care what I do to it as long as it passes the test.  But how will all these modifications impact the test results?  It's no fun having it if I can't drive it.  And then there is the wild card of Permanent Change of Station (PCS).  Where will I end up next?  A lot of variables there. 

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Dave Kiernan

www.airforce.com
www.dosomethingamazing.com

DK,

I didn't mean a fabricated header, just the stock twin carb exhaust manifold. If you like, I'd try to scare one up for you. Port matching for your use doesn't even enter the picture. Use the private mail function, or call me if I can help. Take care.

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

I finished removing the old manifold yesterday.  Now I'm just waiting on new gaskets and studs from Moss.  Here's how I did it, let me know if I missed anything:

Removed air filter and holder

Disconnected choke cable and throttle cable

Disconnected fuel hose, vapor line, breather pipe

Removed carb (4 bolts) and induction heater plate

Disconnected EGR hose, gulp valve hose, check valve hose

Disconnected exhaust pipe form manifold

Removed manifold end bolts then nuts and washers from studs

Removed manifold

Duct taped intake ports to keep clean

Any suggestions on how get the studs out?  I didn't do much to them.  A friend mentioned something about using a 2-nut system, but I couldn't make that work, so I left them alone (didn't want to mess them up incase I needed to use them again.  I have the same problem with the manifold to exhaust studs.  I soaked them with PB Blaster.  Same with the signal pipe adaptor on the old manifold, can't get it out and the new manifold does have one.

As always, anyone's help is greatly appreciated.  I'll be anxiously await a reply (and UPS).  Thanks!

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Dave Kiernan

www.airforce.com
www.dosomethingamazing.com

If you're going to do much more of this, a stud extractor set is really effective. I bought one before tackling my engine rebuild, and it made life nice and easy. So much better than vice grips!

These are good examples (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?keyword=stud+extractor) though you might find a better deal at a different tool supplier.

The only thing these won't remove is a broken stud - but thats a different problem entirely...

Hope that is helpful,

 Ed

 

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I want my MGB

Thanks, I'll check that out.  Does anyone know what I should use to clean my surfaces before reassembly?

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Dave Kiernan

www.airforce.com
www.dosomethingamazing.com

I've always just used a scraper and a wire brush to remove pieces of old gasket, then wipe off the surfaces with a rag.

 Dave

DK,

A carefully applied single edge razor blade often works well. Handles, into which these are cramped, are offered by various tool sellers.

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

Recieved my parts last night (yeah!  much like christmas!), however, I forgot 1 gasket and new exhaust flange studs.  The forecast for this weekend is outstanding!  I wanna drive!  Everything has gone pretty smooth so far (yes, I am knocking on wood).  The hardest things so far have been remove the old exhaust flange studs and straightening my back out after half a day bent over the car.

One or two details to iron out; should the new manifold gasket peek out or should it be a more exact fit (misaligned?)  The control pipe adapter doesn't fit in the new manifold (adapter is too small, someone had stuck a screw in it), can I cement this in somehow?  Also, small metal cylinder (less than 1" long, maybe 1/2" wide, small hole running through) fell out of something when I removed the carb, any hints on where this might go?

 Thanks for the help!

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Dave Kiernan

www.airforce.com
www.dosomethingamazing.com

The "small cylinder" sounds like the spacer from the rubber in the air box mounts. Should be 2 more. 

I don't think I have an air box.

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Dave Kiernan

www.airforce.com
www.dosomethingamazing.com

HELP!  Can leave out the induction heater be left out or repaired?  Mine cracked when I was putting it back on.  Of course this was the last step in put my car back together and it is not available any more.  So my beautiful weekend is shot until I figure this out.

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Dave Kiernan

www.airforce.com
www.dosomethingamazing.com

DK,

The functionality of the heater is not imp[ortant, but the insulating property of the part is. If you can piece it back together well enough for it to seal it will be fine. You just don't want a vacuum leak. Maybe an epoxy product, such as JD Weld, would work. It's hard for me to tell without seeing the nature of the injury. Good luck

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

Broken almost directly in half the paper center is all that remains intact.  Its not like it has come a part or crumbled.  I'll try to piece together and see what happens.  What is it made of?  Its not a difficult shape, perhaps I can get one made.

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Dave Kiernan

www.airforce.com
www.dosomethingamazing.com