Moss Motors, Ltd

So far, I got the chrome bezel off my oil/water temp gauge.  I didn't see any way of not bending the tabs on the bezel to get it off.  I understand that the tabs can become weak and break off.

 Anyway,  the gauge appeared to have "caulk" or some type of sealant (that is now dried up and chiseled out) inside the bezel and outside to seal the ring.  If someone could advise me on the proper sealant to use when I put it back together it would be appreciated.

 

Jim
 

---

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d106/jculpjr/goldenbeigemetallicrunningreduced.jpg

I'm doing the same thing as you! I am going to use RTV (unless I hear otherwise very soon).

Silicon has solvents that actually degrade some metals (over time).

---

On their death bed, nobody ever said, "Gee I wish I'd spent more time at work!"

I spoke with Palo Alto Spedometer today.  They advised using round rubber gasket rings.  That's the route I'll be taking.  Now to find the right sizes...

 

BTW- the Smiths gauges originally came with rubber gaskets- that's the dried sand material that you will find under the bezels. 

---

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d106/jculpjr/goldenbeigemetallicrunningreduced.jpg

Yes, that's a much better idea! I was just down at the local True Value hardware store, and found quite a selection of round rubber gaskets. Try them, and bring your bezels!

The larger gauges are 3-1/8", the small are 2", but you'd better bring them to check the fit. 

---

On their death bed, nobody ever said, "Gee I wish I'd spent more time at work!"

Alternatively, there are O ring splice kits available that allow you to make up an appropriate size from different section rubber cord. The ends are super-glued together.

I've used these to good effect on vacuum systems, and Smiths gauges...
Ed

---

I want my MGB

BTW- on your bezels:  I've been using steel wool with Mothers Chrome Polish (liquid in bottle) to try to get the chrome to shine again and the results have been very good so far.

As you may know, the steel wool goes from rough/coarse grades of 3 with a medium grade being 0 on down to 0000 which is the finest grade as far as I know.

 Anyway, I start off with 0 grade and a bit of Mothers to knock down the large segments of corrosion.  Then I switch over to the 0000 grade and give the  chrome it's final polishing.  They have turned out beautifully. 

---

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d106/jculpjr/goldenbeigemetallicrunningreduced.jpg

 

Hi There!

I am currently reburfishing the dashboard of my 1964 BJ8 Phase 1. Comparing my fuel gauge with some Healey Books it seems as if I don't have the original gauge. Mine is a Jaeger FG2530/05 and it does not have a light bulb holder.

Can anyone supply me with a photo of the orginal Smiths instrument and the instrument number (given on the dial) and confirm that the Smiths instrument is backlighted?  Thanks, Eric

I would start with the 0000 grade of steel wool. The coarser stuff will put micro scratches in the surface. Chrome is actually quite porous anyway, and that's how the freckles begin. Use chrome polish and elbow grease for lasting results. Switch to a soft rag as soon as possible. Finish with wax,believe it or not. This will seal the surface against the moisture that wants to get into the surface and discolor things.

---

Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon