Moss Motors, Ltd

Motorbill this is so exciting, for once I can explain something to you!! The term is Bric- a -Brac. It is an old Victorian term (before my time) for miscellaneous small articles collected for their sentimental, decorative, or other interests. Here are a few synonyms, trinkets, baubles, gimcrack, and my personal favorite...gewgaws.

So there you have it people, antiquated english words 101.What a Forum, car knowledge and english lessons all for the price of asking!

Cheers...Rita

---

Alive to drive British

Thanks Rita, but I'm familiar with the term bric-a-brac. Ask my wife. She has filled our house with it!  Brick bats are something else, and they are not as nice. On the other hand, there aren't as many of them, I hope.... I shall look it up on some E Dictionary and get back to you.

---

Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

OK,

Various online dictionaries agree. It's brickbat. The word stems from a broken off piece of hard material, such as a brick, picked up and used as a missle. Over the years, it has come to mean a disapproving or critical remark. Apparently, early drama critics were even nastier than they are now, and would actually throw such objects at performers whose work they did not appreciate!... Now that we are so civilized (yeah, right) it just means a blunt remark, not a blunt object. Ain't woids wondahful?

---

Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

Both I and my cross hatch pattern thank you SO much for your consideration to this very important matter.

I am sure that others may disagree with some of your advice (that's America), but for me, it seems well reasoned, wise through experience, and sound overall. I will be sure to follow it to the letter (least your efforts be in vein), and further, I will try to find out what a Brickbat is. This should be a "natural" for me since I come from a long line of Masons (the trade...not the religion).

---

On their death bed, nobody ever said, "Gee I wish I'd spent more time at work!"

Motorbill....My research also confirms your definition of Brickbat.

---

On their death bed, nobody ever said, "Gee I wish I'd spent more time at work!"

My dear sainted mother always said " you should try and learn one new thing everyday" So my thanks to you Motorbill and may you never have a brickbat aimed in your general direction!!

Cheers...Rita

---

Alive to drive British

Rita,

If I do indeed percieve such an object coming my way, I shall fend it off with the hardest thing at hand. It sits atop my shoulders!

---

Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

From, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, "If you got a $10 head, get a $10 helmet"!

Your post has rejuvenated my effort to put my baby back together; with oily fingerprints on my keyboard, all the mounts are done (engine and tranny), the slave cylinder is back in place with NO TWISTS, and I'm currently securing the drive shaft to the rear end. Then it's on to the radiator & grill, pressure and temp senders, air pump, and finally air filters. I'm sure that I'm forgetting something here but you get the picture.

By the by..the optimum engine mount configuration is to secure the passenger's side mount to the engine and loosely secure the driver's side mount to the chassis. This allows you to drop the engine in and avoid the steering shaft. As always, things will have to still shift a bit, so don't tighten anything until all bolts are started.

It's back to work for davey...Cheers!         

---

On their death bed, nobody ever said, "Gee I wish I'd spent more time at work!"

Well Davey I found it  and read your tale. The price you paid was a bit less than mine as I didn't have to replace the cam or need head work so I think you did well.(I blew the #2 bearing with chaff, and mine knocked). As I have said this guy does top notch work and I think you will be very happy wih the result.I used 15 -40 diesel oil for the breakin in the summer and my pressure at idle was about 40 when warm and 60 at speed.It runs very well but Motorbilll is right about the tuning as everything needed adjusting, Also the engine really wants to rev so you have to be careful for a while.Good luck

HELP!....I'll cut to the chase....

All is reassembled and ready to go. I added the electronic ignition while the engine was still on my bench.

It won't start...it "pops" every once in a while, but that's all. The timing is within a degree or so. I set it dynamically to 4 degrees while the woman turned the key and I was down below with the timing light. It has gas and I even tried starting fluid (don't tell motorbill66), but it still does not want to start. 

Initally I thought that Mr. Mechanic replaced the dizzy 180 degrees off, but soon found out when I tried to turn it that the dogs will not allow for that. I could not seat the shaft if I turned it 180 degrees. I also tried delivering voltage AND ground to the electronic module direct from the battery...no luck.

As I stated, it DOES "pop" every now and then. What am I overlooking here? Could it be the carbies? They were fairly well adjusted before the rebuild. I'm just lost at this point.

---

On their death bed, nobody ever said, "Gee I wish I'd spent more time at work!"

Same thing happened to me. I am ashamed to tell you I had the spark plug wires on wrong. The rotor on these cars spins counter clockwise, so I had them wrong way around. Hope its as simple as that.

If were only that easy! I marked the wires 1-4 when I took off the cap before the rebuild.

I'm considering going back to the points just to get her running even though I know that it would be a waste of time.

---

On their death bed, nobody ever said, "Gee I wish I'd spent more time at work!"

You're smarter than this, but did you put the rotor back?  OK, you did. Are you getting a spark at all the plugs?

 Is the magnet fully seated on the dizzy shaft?  How did you connect the Pertronix red and black wires?

Well, I am fairly confident that I am smarter than a houseplant, (at least one of average intelligence), but other than that...all bets are off!

Yes, the rotor is in, the magnet sleeve is in place correctly, and the red & black wires are hooked to the coil as directed (with respect to polarity), and there IS spark to at least the two wires that I checked (#1 & #2).

I do have a question though. In the stapled bag of parts came a piece of clear plastic about 1.5" long by about .25" wide and .025" thick. There is no mention of this piece in the directions. Is it a feeler gauge that I must use somewhere or is it just something that fell in the bag at the factory?    

---

On their death bed, nobody ever said, "Gee I wish I'd spent more time at work!"

OK....NOW I'M WORRIED!!!!

In an attempt just to get the car running, I replaced the points (.015 gap) and condenser. There IS spark, there IS gas, there IS compression and the carbs were fine when they came off the car. 

The results are the same as with the Pertronix, an occasional pop, and/or backfire but it still won't start. I'm begining to think that the mechanic may have screwed up the timing when he did the chain and sprockets, and I am NOT looking froward to pulling this engine out again to bring it back to him!

What can I check? I'm going to hit the manual for advice too, but what the heck! Got any ideas?    

---

On their death bed, nobody ever said, "Gee I wish I'd spent more time at work!"