Absolutely!
Put her up on 4 jack stands and go for it. There are two real concerns for which to watch.
1. The cork gaskets that you will find that wrap around the main bearings in the front and back are longer than they have to be. You'll have to trim them down to fit. Also, this is the ONLY area where you'll use Permatex! Just a tiny dab where the cork mates with the paper gaskets (4 spots total).
2. When you have the sump out, examine the areas around the bolt-holes. If they are not perfectly flat, they WILL leak. A good way to flatten them is to hang the lip of the sump on the edge of a strong straight edge, (I used my cast iron table saw). At this point the sump is in it's normal attitude - bolt holes up, drain plug down. To actually take the bend out of the areas around the bolt-holes, hold the round edge of a ball peen hammer centered in the bolt-hole while, (with your THIRD hand), use another hammer to gently tap the ball pein so that it straightens out the area of deformity. A final check of flatness is to place the sump upside down on a perfectly flat surface (again, I used my tale saw bed). You can use a flashlight under the sump to see if any light escapes anywhere, or what I did was use a piece of paper as a feeler gauge all around. You need that thing to be perfectly flat!
When reassembling remember that over tourquing is bad! Screwing those bolts in too much will only mushroom out the holes and eradicate all of your work to flatten them. The oval shaped washers on those bolts are there for a reason, to help spread the force and minimize deformity, use them accordingly.
All in all it's a doable job in a few hours by anyone with patience, tools and a lick of common sense. But remember, If you want to avoid a leak, ya gotta think like a drip!
Good Luck, and keep us informed!
On their death bed, nobody ever said, "Gee I wish I'd spent more time at work!"
'68 Sprite 1275
'76 Midget 1500