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Clutch pedal stop:

Last post 10-31-2009, 1:00 AM by ddubois. 7 replies.
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  •  10-28-2009, 7:59 AM 21581

    Clutch pedal stop:

    52 TD with the rod linkage to the clutch: How / where is there a stop on the clutch pedal to limit over-depressing? I can find no sign of anything in or on the pedal box, the firewall, or under the car. No reference in the parts catalog but something turned up on ebay described as such and I've seen discussion on lesser (!) forums. I don't like the feel of clutch without something to tell when its sufficiently depressed to be disengaged. Thanks for any input and suggestions.
  •  10-28-2009, 10:04 AM 21584 in reply to 21581

    Re: Clutch pedal stop:

    Nope - the only clutch pedal stop is the firewall panel itself.  All you're doing as the pedal goes to the floor is lifting the pressure plate a bit further back from the flywheel.  No harm done as the linkage geometry can only move so far.

    Some people argue we should enjoy these automotive relics as a period piece of engineering history in the evolution to our modern automobile.  What is "Not right"  and awkward to some, is "character" and historical significance to others.

    If you really want to finesse the clutch engage position, the clutch throw rods are hollow.  Take one into your favorite machine shop, cut the rod into two equal halves, then tap threads for a 5/16" threaded rod into the interior of the clutch rod halves. Screw both rod halves on to the 5/16" threaded rod, and lengthen/shorten as needed. This will allow you to "move" the clutch pedal engage point forward/aft as you desire, and it will take up all the accumulated slop in the linkage due to pivot point wear.

  •  10-28-2009, 12:35 PM 21587 in reply to 21584

    Re: Clutch pedal stop:

    Thanks for the input Dick. I absolutely agree with your "character" comments but I did draw the line at the transmission and dropped in a five speed, spending some time to get the linkage lengths optimal! Too much time spent learning to drive on an original, non-synchro first gear mini to appreciate it now! Thanks again.
  •  10-28-2009, 1:20 PM 21588 in reply to 21587

    Re: Clutch pedal stop:

    Big Smile  I also installed the Moss 5-speed transmission for the exact same reasons.  I really got tired of the "Grunch!" every time you selected first or reverse, no matter how careful you were!  More "character" than I wanted.  Throw in the Pertronix ignitor kit, and that package of new technology in the old relic really makes a enjoyable, fun-driving roadster out of it - just what the boys at Abingdon intended.  Yes

    Still can't pass anyone going uphill, however ...

  •  10-29-2009, 10:34 AM 21600 in reply to 21588

    Re: Clutch pedal stop:

    Dick,

    Even if they're going downhill?


    Motorbill
    From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon
  •  10-29-2009, 10:51 AM 21602 in reply to 21600

    Re: Clutch pedal stop:

    What if they're parked?

     

    Good one M.B.

    LCJUTILA 

  •  10-30-2009, 12:34 AM 21615 in reply to 21581

    Re: Clutch pedal stop:

    "Nope - the only clutch pedal stop is the firewall panel itself."

     Sorry Dick, that is not true on other than the early TDs.  The later ones (I'm not sure just where they started installing them) have a clutch stop in the pedal box.  If you want to e-mail me at SUfuelpumps@donobi.net, I can send you a picture of the stop and somewhere I have some drawings with dimensions for the stop.

     


    Cheers,
    Dave
    http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/
  •  10-31-2009, 1:00 AM 21635 in reply to 21581

    Re: Clutch pedal stop:

    Something interesting happened on the way to the forum (actually while looking up information for Richard in regards to the clutch pedal stop in the TD/TF).  First, according to the T series Handbook, published by the New England Register, the pedal stop on the early TDs (TD/0251 through TD/22250) was accomplished by the cable that operated the clutch.  Starting with TD22251 through the TFs, the cable was abandoned and a rod linkage was used to operate the clutch.  At this point, a clutch stop bolt was added to the bottom of the pedal box in the cars.  The cable stop and the the clutch stop bolt effectively stops any further travel of the throw out bearing against the thrust plate on the clutch pressure plate beyond the point where the clutch disk is released and the prevention of possible damage to the clutch throwout bearing due to over travel.  Over time, the clutch cables were no longer produced and the early cars that had originally been equipped with the cable were converted to the clutch rod linkage, but since there was no mention anywhere about the clutch stop bolt, said bolt was not added to these cars.  Also the cable stop bolt in a number of the later TDs and in the TFs were undoubtedly lost or didn't get reinstalled during repair or restoration. 

    Fast forward a number of years and Mike O'Connor of O'Connor classics in California wrote an article in response to the breakage/bending of the main clutch rod in TD as a result of interference with the web of the clutch lever on the side of the sump.  Mike's cure for this problem was to grind the web of the clutch lever at an angle so that the clutch rod was no longer bothered by this web.  Also somewhere around that time frame, two other gentlemen in California wrote a seemingly unrelated article about, among other things, the missing clutch stop bolt and how to make one and install it in the early cars that never had one.  Both of these articles reside in my great file of things MG, having been read by me and filed for future reference (such as when someone like Richard asks the question about excessive clutch pedal travel).  In particular, Mike O'Connor's article piqued by curiosity as to why I had never had a problem with clutch rod breakage or bending even though the web in the clutch lever on our TD had never been modified.  My curiosity was piqued, but not sufficiently to make me explore the reason the clutch rod/clutch lever in our TD had not had any problem and so nothing was looked into or done other than check that the clutch stop bolt was in fact installed in our TD.  Because of Richard's question, I dug out the two aforementioned articles and made copies to send to Richard and it was then that the penny finally dropped - the missing clutch stop bolt was the reason for the need of Mike O'Connor's modification to the clutch lever on the early TD.  I also realized that I had never heard of a clutch rod being broken on a TF.  Serendipity is a wonderful thingSmile

     


    Cheers,
    Dave
    http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/