Moss Motors, Ltd

Our Sites: Moss USA | Moss Europe
Welcome to Moss Motors, Ltd Sign in | Join | Help
in Search

Buying a 1967 Mark III BJ8

Last post 10-10-2009, 9:35 AM by motorbill66. 3 replies.
Sort Posts: Previous Next
  •  10-08-2009, 11:11 AM 21341

    Buying a 1967 Mark III BJ8

    Ok, I'm a newbie, so forgive me if I have some basic questions.

    I have found what appears to be a repairable 1967 Mark III..  Body looks ok. Plenty of surface rust, everything is there, Silver dollar size rust hole in bottom of the passenger door panel. Mice got to the carpets, etc...  So interior is all there but will needs new carpets and seat kits etc.... (I'd replace anyway) Id does roll, and you can cycle through the gears.

    Engine wont turn, seems to be frozen in a couple of cylinders, but again... all there. Oddly, all the chrome is really good except badges. If the frame is ok, what might a good price for this be? The guy is asking 11,500, which I think is steep but maybe not. I need some good sound advice here. This has now been sitting outside for a few months.

    My expectations are that It'll probably be a year or two to get this into a running vehicle...  and lots of time to do the interior stuff.  I love this car, but am i jumping too soon?  Oh, one more question. From what I understand, NY didnt do titles prior to 1972. He does not have an original transferable registration, so the car comes only with a Bill of sale. Is this normal? 

    Many thanks for your advice

  •  10-08-2009, 11:52 AM 21344 in reply to 21341

    Re: Buying a 1967 Mark III BJ8

    newbie,

    The first thing you need to do is sit down and think about the real cost of doing this job. Big Healey parts prices are high. This is because the cars are less numerous than MGs, TRs, and such. Just to show an example, I usually charge in the area of six thousand dollars to remove, overhaul, refinish, reaccessory, reinstall, and retune an MGB engine. This climbs to over ten thousand with a Healey six. The rest of the car follows suit, and if you have some of the typical structural rust issues that you really don't see at first, you are in for a slog. I don't really mean to discourage you, though, just to prepare you. Get a catalog and a calculator and "bracket" everything you will have to do with lower prices for the smallest number of new parts and services, and worst case prices for the same. Now, average the two and move upward by about twelve percent. You will spend this much EASILY. Remember, these are very desirable cars, and thus, if yours is to be one of the truly valuable of the last most valuable Big Healeys, it has to be done to a tee. On the other hand, if you just want a fun driver, you can certainly take shortcuts, and there's NO SHAME in that. In fact, I tend to drive classic sports cars in excellent mechanical condition with compromised exteriors that I park wherever I fell like parking and drive without fear of chips.

    The engine will need total overhaul by someone who understands these engines and their kinks. I would try to get this car for less than the asking price for this and other reasons. These are not good times to be selling cars in need of total restoration. Let the seller know that you are well aware that the cost of doing the work is quite high, and that perhaps that's why HE isn't doing it. This will deflect with verbal jujitsu his claim that when you get it done it will be SO valuable. Be aware, that no car restored correctly will be worth at completion what it cost to get it that way. Never.

    There a LOT of details to cover here, and since the car does not run, you must assume the worst. Such as: does the overdrive function? Rather expensive to repair or replace, the overdrive is not an easily serviced unit at home. There are specialists. The list goes on. These are detailed cars, though elegant and powerful.

    If you really want one, look for one that's already running and has few problems; problems you can detect at purchase. It will be cheaper in the long run. On the other hand, if what you really want is the committed relationship to a project that is restoration, welcome to the club!!


    Motorbill
    From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon
  •  10-09-2009, 9:40 AM 21355 in reply to 21344

    Re: Buying a 1967 Mark III BJ8

    MotorBill,

    Thanks, your advice is spot on. I think I am definately leaning toward what will... in the end, be a high end good "driver". I have begun to go through items... (mainly panels, interior items, and the like just to see whats available. In my head, I was estimating about 10 grand for the engine and tranny overhaul, so maybe I am a little thin there.  I have a local shop in the DC area that specializes in British motor cars I plan on using for the overhaul. (There is a British Car Club show locally this weekend, so I am hoping to discuss options as far as that is concerned with others who have been through a rebuild). My plan was to have the shop remove the engine/transmission, start working that process, while i concentrate on the body and frame etc.... What can you tell me about the panel assembly / disassembly.  Any "gotchas" there, or pretty straight forward?

    All in all, I expect this to be a few years in the making, but i would like to think I can have the powertrain back within a year, and by that time I can have the frame and body and panels prepared to receive everything. I almost hate to ask this, but how big of a "faux pas"  would it be to change the current color red, to another standard color "blue with white"?  

    I think I'll offer this guy about half of what he's asking for, in which case, he might tell me to go pound salt. On the other hand, if he doesn't, I'll have a decent starter vehicle at a decent price. If he doesn't accept, I'll keep my eye out for a '67 in the color I want to begin with that I can hear run.

    I REALLY appreciate your comments to date..   Ya gotta start somewhere... right?

     Best 

    "Newbie Cory"

     

  •  10-10-2009, 9:35 AM 21367 in reply to 21355

    Re: Buying a 1967 Mark III BJ8

    Cory,

    If the object here is a high end driver, the original color isn't so important. Just remember that someday you may want to sell it, and that it could, I do say could, be important then. This would be especially true if the car was originally the Golden Beige Metallic color, which is the most desireable color on the most desireable year of the last Big Healey, ya know?

    Finding knowledgable folks at the car show is a good idea, but remember that opinions vary. Listen to many, then trust yourself.

    If you find rust on your first "REAL" inspection, (That's the one that begins when you pull the interior and the front fenders off), brace the cockpit across the door openings before cutting out and rewelding parts. Be especially suspicious of the chassis, which can look quite good at first, but which may begin to reveal bad spots if you stab at it enough.

    Bargainingwise, I'd say your approach is sound, unless others are currently interested. If you are one of few who has shown interest, be prepared to walk away, leaving him with your contact information. If it's meant to be, you'l hear from him...sooner than later. Enjoy the process, my friend.


    Motorbill
    From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon