mg man 75 - please post! Would love to read.
I am glad to see others that have done similar mods to their 1500s. I'm a bit of a purist, in that I love the sound of the English 4-bangers. There are plenty of Japanese engine/trans combos that could be made to work without too much fabrication. They'd be more reliable, cheaper to run, and would have decent power (over 100hp, any way). That said, I would be somewhat embarrassed to open the hood at car shows...
I've rebuilt my 79/80 1500 with following:
- .30 overbore w/9.1:1 compression (Lee's Machine in Colorado Springs, with Moss parts)
- APT cam (T54)
- three angle valve job (Lee's Machine)
- ported head, polished exhaust (self)
- twin Weber 40 DCOEs (30mm chokes) with Pierce manifold (eBay, Cannon)
- 40K Volt coil (local auto supply)
- rear oil gallery line to rockers (local auto supply)
- electric fan with thermostat control replacing clutch fan (local car supply)
- remote mounted oil filter and added cooler (local auto supply, with fabrication of oil adaptor done locally)
- header (from Moss)
- lightened flywheel (Lee's Machine)
I haven't thrown it in the car yet, but I hope to in the next couple months. My guess is that it'll give me between 80 - 100hp, and a whole lot more zoom given the removal of fan/smog equipment, lighter flywheel, and ditching the brutally ugly and heavy stock bumpers. That latter mod alone shaved over 100lbs from the car. I fabricated some new bumpers from plate and round steel stock that will be able to accept a home-built quick-lift Lemans-style jacking system.
The carbs just fit with 3/4" velocity stacks. I have yet to fabricate the airbox and cold air induction system out of sheet metal and modified Japanese street tuner parts. This shouldn't be too difficult, and I may even get a marginal HP bonus at higher speeds with the cooler air and ram effect.
I think the 1500 is a very solid motor, but I didn't go too crazy on it because the long stroke compared to its bore makes it unable to rev like an A Series engine. I built it with a useable 2000-6500 rpm range so it would still drive well on the street. Removing rotating weight and boring it .30 over should allow it to spin more quickly, and also takes some of the torque twist off the crankshaft.
The body is being done now. I am filling in the side marker lights, front and rear bumper mounting holes, and converting the rear quarter panels to pre '75 rounded versions. The whole car is being lowered with heaver front springs, 3/4" sway bar, poly bushings, revalved front shocks with heavier 30w oil, and perhaps tube shocks in the rear.
Instead of going for a new rear end or 5 speed, I put 13" minilites on with 185/70 Yokohama Avid T4s. They just clear the wheel wells in front and rear (can't go full lock, but small price to pay). I am hoping their 1" taller height will lower the rear ratio enough. Otherwise, I'll be taking the stock tranny to the local junkyards until I find a reasonable Japanese 5sp that looks like it'll hook up without too much difficulty.
Once it's all together, will take it for the road test and post results/pics.
If anyone's looking for stock parts - I have a ton in good shape. pm me at thecoloradokings@comcast.net if you're interested.