Moss Motors, Ltd

motorbill, 

Acually, I did end up using a "cheater bar" on my wratchet which would act as a good breaker bar.  It did work wonders compared to the impact.  as always, thanks for the advice.

joel

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1976 MGB with a 1977 engine

You should have seen the lengths (pun intended) I had to go to, in order to undo the flange nut on the transmission. It really took some persuasion to come loose.

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I want my MGB

just made my order for parts from moss last night...can't wait till they get here.  

joel

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1976 MGB with a 1977 engine

most of my parts came in today...waiting on 2 gaskets come in on wednesday.  

question:  I'm going to change my oil pan gasket tomorow...should I use any gasket sealant with the new gasket, or is the gasket all I need to use?

thanks,

joel

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1976 MGB with a 1977 engine

joel,

Use cement! I like to use an adhesive type cement to stick the gasket to the (VERY CLEAN!) block, and non-hardening Permatex brown to seal the pan to the gasket. Use plenty, especially around the ends, where the cork seals are.

Before installing the pan, make sure the sheet metal around the holes is straight and not "pooched up" from the last tightening. A smallish hammer and a socket can be used to accomplish this task.

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

motorbill,

do you mean like rubber cement?

 How about, permatex contact cement?

 

And for the non-hardening permatex, how about: 

gas and oil SEAL-ALL

or

permatex Black silicone adhesive sealant?

Will any of these work fine as well?

joel

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1976 MGB with a 1977 engine

joel,

No, not rubber cement. I use Permatex Aviation Style cement for the adhesive. It comes in a small white container and has a brush built into the cap. Follow the directions, and don't be shy with it. Use plenty about the end cork seals mentioned in the above post. The non-hardening cement we use is Permatex pliable sealant, #2A. First, make sure the gasket fits all the holes correctly. If not, soak it for just a couple of minutes in warm water, then put it in place on the clean uncemented block with most of the bolts, but no pan. Let it just about dry out. This won't take very long. Now, release it and see if it fits. Still won't fit comfortably? Soak it again and this time leave it a little damp. This won't affect the cement, and eases things considerably.

I'm sure some are now labeling me as an antique because I don't advocate silicone cement for virtually everything. The reason becomes a long winded lecture, into which I will not go right now, so consider yourself lucky.

I've been building pretty darn dry engines for some time now using the above products, so I stick (pun intended) with them.

Bill

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

motorbill,

none of the auto stores in my area seem to carry these specific products...I guess that I will have to try and find similar products.

joel

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1976 MGB with a 1977 engine

joel,

Really? These are two of Permatex's most popular products. Geez, now I really AM starting to feel old!

Try a couple more stores. You want Aviation Style and Brown Non-hardening. Somebody's just gotta have it. Sometimes the "clerks" in these places just kind of......

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

i found the cement at NAPA autoparts...so they tell me on the phone... but noone has the #2A sealant...they have the #2B though which is also nonhardening and is listed as  an application for oil pan gaskets...will this be just as ok as the #2A?

joel

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1976 MGB with a 1977 engine

joel,

Sorry, I had a senior moment there. What you want is indeed the 2B non-hardening.

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

motorbill,

Through further research, I found what I believe the differance in the 2A, 2B, and 2C is only the size of the tube.  so I went up to NAPA and they had the 2A after all  so I got 2 tubes of it.  like you said, sometimes those clerks....

thanks, 

joel

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1976 MGB with a 1977 engine

joel,

Just make sure that it's non-hardening, because they also make fast setting hard drying in that series. You don't want that.

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

motorbill,

it's non-hardening.  Got that oilpan put back on.  I hope I did everything right and it seals well.

should I use these sealants on the other paper gaskets that I will be replacing as well?  Behind the backing plate?  What about the rear oil seal bearing seal, should I use a sealant on that or does it just sit in there.

thanks,

joel

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1976 MGB with a 1977 engine

The Aviation Style especially, is great on paper gaskets like the one on the engine rear plate. Use it where the gasket will sit against a machined steel surface. It tends to be too thin where you have rough surfaces and sheet metal. Not to confuse, I did have you use it on the pan gasket which involves sheet metal, but only on the machined surface of the block/paper interface. The non-hardening will take up the gaps between the pan and the gasket. Enjoy.

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon