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Carb Setting for Moss Supercharger

Last post 12-08-2007, 8:34 AM by soysoy. 4 replies.
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  •  09-05-2007, 8:02 AM 9344

    Carb Setting for Moss Supercharger

    I recently purchased a used Moss Magnacharger for a TD. Everything installed fine, and I am quite happy with the performance increase. I do not know, however, if I received all the parts. There does not seem to be a fast idle adjustment for the carburetor. This is a small problem when starting the car cold. The mixture is okay, but there is no way to increase the ide speed. The carb is a 1-1/2 inch 6020 MGA-type SU. Should I try to get the proper levers and cam from an MGA carb, or is there a better solution? I have the choke cable arranged so that it is pulling from the engine side of the carb as opposed to the bonnet side (the carb now flows back-to-front, in line with the length of the car). Can this be changed to pull from the other side? Finally, there appears to be a vacuum fitting on the throat of this carb. Should I plug this or can it be used? I would like to install a boost gauge and would like to use this fitting rather than drill the manifold.

     

    Thanks! 

  •  09-05-2007, 8:40 AM 9346 in reply to 9344

    Re: Carb Setting for Moss Supercharger

    I think you need to get in touch with the tech department at Moss. Though he is not in that department, Kelvin Dodd could also answer your questions, as he is quite familiar with all the Moss Supercharger details.

    One thing I CAN tell you, though, is that you can't run your boost gauge line from the carburetter. That is upstream from where the boost happens. You need to plumb it in AFTER the blower. Good luck.

     


    Motorbill
    From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon
  •  09-05-2007, 10:33 AM 9350 in reply to 9346

    Re: Carb Setting for Moss Supercharger

    Thanks, Motorbill.

    I was thinking vacuum, not boost. You are indeed correct that no boost will be measured upstream of the blower.

    Tom 

     

  •  09-05-2007, 12:43 PM 9353 in reply to 9344

    Re: Carb Setting for Moss Supercharger

    The carburetor was not equipped with a fast idle link from the choke assembly to the throttle shaft. It's feasible to fabricate one, but originally the carb was not so equipped.

     The choke linkage is not handed, so can be changed from one side to the other by swapping the spring and lever positions.

    The fitting on the carburetor is ported vacuum, usually used as a source for the vacuum advance on the distributor. It should be plugged if unused.

     A boost gauge as Bill noted needs to be tapped into the intake manifold between the blower and the engine head.

     

    Hope this helps

     

     


    Kelvin Dodd
    Global Sourcing Engineer
    Moss Motors, Ltd.
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    Disclaimer: Working on automobiles is inherently dangerous. Moss Motors, Ltd. is not liable for injury or damage due to incorrect installation or use of their products. All products are sold with the understanding that the safe and proper installation and use of the products is the customer’s responsibility. Follow factory workshop manual procedures and instructions, but use current shop safety standards and common sense. Some tasks will require professional advice or services which Moss Motors cannot provide.
  •  12-08-2007, 8:34 AM 11922 in reply to 9346

    Re: Carb Setting for Moss Supercharger

    I had  problem on tuning the carb on the  supercharged mgb. this sorted it out

    Additional Tuning Information for the Following Symptoms:

     

     

    1.  Worst Case:  Engine will idle, but when the throttle is applied the engine will not rev.  If the Carburetor Damper Piston is lifted manually the engine will rev correctly.

     

    2.  Minor Case:  Under hard acceleration, the engine will totally bog when up shifting.  The engine will pickup again after a moment if the throttle is released.

     

     

    Cause:

     

    The Carburetor Damper Piston is not lifting quickly enough under load to offset the suction of the supercharger.  The Piston is literally sucked down to the bridge and will not move.

     

    During assembly and set up of the Carburetor, jets were installed to slow the Piston movement under wide open throttle conditions.  This was required to prevent lean conditions when the vacuum operated diverter valve closes at higher revs and there is an immediate large suction through the carburetor which would cause the Piston to over react and allow too much air through the carburetor.  Typically this will happen when cruising at light load on the freeway and hard acceleration is required.

     

    To prevent this condition, two jets were installed in the vacuum ports at the bottom of the carburetor Piston.  These ports, combined with the heavier 90 wt. damper oil slow the movement of the Piston.

     

    Due to manufacturing tolerances and variations in engine vacuum characteristics, we have run into cases where the specified jet size does not allow the Piston to move quickly enough to offset the suction of the supercharger.  When this happens, the Piston is sucked down to the bridge and will not lift until the airspeed past the bridge increases.  This problem is aggravated if the Piston and Damper clearances are too tight, or if the Piston is binding in the Suction Chamber.

     

    If you have either of the two symptoms mentioned, please follow the following steps to re-size the jets.  Removing the carburetor Piston and Suction Chamber assembly and re-sizing the jets requires the following tools and approximately 30 minutes. 

     

    Flat Bladed Screwdriver

    Numbered Drill Set with sizes from # 49 – 36

    A caliper is recommended for verifying dimensions, but is not required

    Wire Wool 

     

     

    Procedure:

     

    1.  Unscrew the black knob (Damper Assembly) on the top of the carburetor by hand.

     

    2.  If you have access to a caliper, measure the Damper Piston diameter at the base of the assembly. It should measure .325 +/- .002 in.  This is to ensure that an oversized damper did not get through our checking procedure.

     

     

    Piston

     

    3.  Again, if you have access to a caliper, measure the ID of the Damper tube that the piston was removed from.  It should be .343 in.

     

    Assuming that both of these items are within tolerance, proceed to the next step.

     

    4.  Remove the Suction Chamber and Piston Assembly from the Carburetor body by removing the 3 securing screws using a flat bladed screwdriver.  Lift the assembly straight off the body, taking care not to bend the needle which protrudes from the Piston.

     

    5.  Remove the circlip from the top of the Piston Assembly.  Push the Piston into the Suction Chamber against the spring to allow access to the ring groove.  The image below is for illustration purposes only. Allow the Piston Assembly to slide out of the Suction Chamber with the Piston Spring.

    Circlip

     

    6.  Check the dye on the spring to ensure that it is red for the MGB application or Green for the MGA application.

     

    7.  We recommend that the needle be removed to ensure it is not damaged for the following steps.  Loosen the screw on the side of the Piston and remove the needle.

     

     

    8.  Check that the needle is labeled BCA. The lettering should be on the collar of the needle.

    Lettering

     


     

    9.  Reassemble the Piston, Spring and Suction Chamber.  Carefully slide the piston in the chamber and ensure that it has smooth movement.  If there is any binding, the Piston should be buffed gently with wire wool to remove any imperfections.  Make sure that the piston moves smoothly before removing it for the next step.

     

    7.  Looking at the bottom of the Piston, you will see that there are two ports which have drilled brass plugs inserted into them. These are the jet holes which will need to be enlarged. The jets were installed to reduce the speed of piston lift when the supercharger bypass valve closes upon hard acceleration.  The jet size that worked best on our test cars was .073 in.  This is equivalent to a # 49 drill bit.

     

     

     

    If the piston is not lifting from idle, then we would recommend re-drilling the jets to .082 in. with a # 45 drill as a first step. 

     

    If the piston is only sticking during 1st to 2nd gear up shifts, then re-drill the jet to .0785 in. with a #47 drill as a first step, remember you can always make the holes larger but too large of a hole will result in stumbling when accelerating hard from a cruising speed.

     

    Make sure that all drill chips are cleaned from the Piston.  Reinstall the needle.  Make sure the notch is facing the set screw and the needle collar is flush with the base of the slide. 

     

     

     

    Reassemble the carburetor and see if this resolves the problem.  If the problem still persists, repeat the drilling process with the next size drill bit.  Again we caution against skipping drill sizes as too large of a jet size will reduce performance and could introduce detonation under load from too lean of a mixture.

     

    We have had an extreme case where the jets have had to be drilled out to .1065 in. # 36 drill.   In the event of the piston still not lifting from idle with this large of a jet, please contact our technical department.

     

       modification on the carb that have to do