Emission
control, once dirty words to many automobile enthusiasts, is now
accepted as a necessary fact of life. Even those of us who drive
pre-pollution control cars can do our part to minimize our cars'
adverse effects on the air we breathe, and, at the same time, have our
engines run better and last longer. It's not magic that is needed to
accomplish this, but rather a thorough and accurate tune-up, followed
by simple by-the-book maintenance. On cars equipped with emission
controls, if everything is working properly, and is in proper
condition, the car will pass an emissions test. If it does not pass,
something on the car isn't functioning properly.
All cars work
better and pollute less when brakes are not dragging, wheel bearings
are properly adjusted and lubricated, and when driven sensibly. Even
wheel alignment makes its contribution. The following outline should
serve as a general guide to cleaner, better driving; you'll find
complete instructions and details in the workshop manual appropriate
for your particular car.
Ignition:
- Distributor
- in good mechanical condition. (rotates freely without shaft wobble, advance mechanism(s) working correctly)
- adjusted correctly (points & timing)
- in good electrical condition (cap, rotor, points, low tension lead, insulation)
- Coil & Wires
- coil output (best checked with an oscilloscope)
- wires of correct type and in good condition
- good, solid electrical connections
- correct coil polarity
- Spark Plugs
- correct type: reach, heat range ("reach" is the length of the
threaded shank, heat range refers to the spark plug's ability to
transfer heat - Not how "hot" the spark is)
- clean and correctly gapped
- sealing washer in good condition
Carburetion:
- good mechanical condition (clean; linkages free, but without excess
looseness; throttle shafts unworn; fuel, vent, and overflow fittings
and connections tight and unobstructed; no vacuum leaks)
- properly adjusted (mixture, float height, slow idle, fast idle, choke, synchronization of multiple carbs.)
- clean and unrestricted air filter (a dirty/clogged air filter will dramatically enrich your air/fuel mixture)
- correct amount and type of oil in SU and Zenith-Stromberg dashpots
(generally, the heavier the oil, the richer the mixture on
acceleration).
Compression:
An important factor is equal power output from each cylinder. This is
largely governed by equal compression in all cylinders (assuming proper
carburetion & ignition).
- Valves (clearance, seating, timing)
- Piston rings
- Head gasket
- Valve guides (not worn)
- Pushrods (not bent, correct length)
- Rocker arms & shaft (not worn)
Venting:
- Venting of assemblies is vital to their proper operation. A plugged
differential vent, for example, can cause oil to be flown out past the
oil seals - dangerous to the differential, a mess on your car, and
polluting to the environment.
- Engine (crankcase breather)
- Carbs. (dashpots, overflow)
- Gearbox & Differential
Working on automobiles is inherently dangerous. Moss Motors, Ltd. is not liable for injury or damage due to incorrect installation or use of their products. All products are sold with the understanding that the safe and proper installation and use of the products is the customer’s responsibility. Follow factory workshop manual procedures and instructions, but use current shop safety standards and common sense. Some tasks will require professional advice or services which Moss Motors cannot provide.Email (for Moss Tech help):
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