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"Extra" Fuses for Extra Protection
If
I told you that you could purchase an insurance policy that would
protect your British sports car for as long as you owned it for around
five dollars, you would probably ask me if I had a bridge to sell also!
But, while I don't have a bridge, I can tell you how to protect your
baby for under five bucks.
Most British sports cars manufactured
before 1968 only have two fuses protecting their entire electrical
system. Typically these fuses only protect the horns, A-2, the purple
wires on the fuse block, and the accessories, A-4, the green wires on
the fuse block. A fuse on the horns is handy to remove when the horn
button sticks and your neighbors are threatening you, and your
accessories such as the stop lights, turn signals and wipers are duly
protected from staging their own version of the Chernoble melt-down.
Some of the most important and largest current-using circuits are not
protected from electrical problems and short circuits. The circuits
that I'm referring to are (surprise!) the headlamps and side lights.
These circuits are in constant use, unlike all the others that enjoy
only intermittent use. A worthwhile modification to pre-1969 British
sports cars is to fit fuses to these unprotected circuits. This will
protect the car's wiring system from damage and the whole automobile
from a possible fire!
When an unfused circuit, like that of the
headlamp, develops a short circuit, the wires will get red hot and burn
away their plastic insulation. Should these bare wires contact anything
combustible, such as interior material, grease or gasoline, you can
guess the results-you do carry a fire extinguisher, don't you?
An
easy way to protect yourself and your British baby is to fit what is
known as an "in-line fuse". An in-line fuse is a small plastic holder
containing a replaceable standard automotive fuse for attachment in a
circuit.
These little wonders are placed usually between the switch
and the electrical device in the wiring. For example, on the headlamp
circuit, put the fuse between the headlamp switch and the dipper
switch, and for the marker lights, between the switch and the group of
red wires. Or, a single fuse can be placed between the headlamp switch
and its source of power on cars with separate ignition and headlamp
switches. Personally, I prefer to protect each circuit with its own
fuse. (See diagram.)
The wonderful thing about in-line fuses is that
they can be easily installed, and also, easily hidden for Concours
fans. If a problem arises in that circuit, the fuse will blow, stopping
any further damage. You'll also know that the problem is limited to
just that circuit, not the whole car, when it comes time to
trouble-shoot the problem. Moss stocks these units under part #146-750.
Use a 25 amp. fuse, #146-710, for most circuits, or a 35 amp. fuse
#146-700, if you are using Quartz Halogen headlamps.
To install an
in-line fuse, first consult your shop manual for the wiring diagram to
find how the circuit is wired and the color code of wires in question.
Next, disconnect the battery, otherwise you will be cutting into a
"live" wire, and while there isn't enough voltage to hurt you, you want
to avoid any short circuits while you install the in-line fuse. Be sure
to solder or use the proper type of connectors when joining wires
together; just twisting them ‰ together and slapping some tape around
them creates problems instead of preventing them.
Often, you can
simply cut the existing wire from the switch and install the in-line
fuse in the middle of the wire, leaving enough distance from the switch
so you don't have to stand on your head to change the fuse.
If the
wire isn't long enough to handle easily, you may extend the wire using
additional wire of matching size and approximate color. Installation is
as follows: Cut the wire in a handy location between the light and its
on-off switch, then remove about 3/16" of the insulation from each end.
On one end, slide on the plastic cap, followed by one of the metal
contacts, which you will solder to the end of the wire.
On the
other loose end of the wire, slide on the longer plastic tube, followed
by the spring and the other contact that you will solder in place.
Insert the fuse in the longer tube and screw the cap in place by
pressing down and turning it about a quarter turn and the job is done!
It's also a good idea to mark the outside of the fuse holder with a
felt-tipped pen so you can tell the circuits apart. At $1.55 each, you
can afford to protect all the unfused circuits in your car and
ultimately your car itself!
Ben Travato
Santa Barbara, CA
Working on automobiles is inherently dangerous. Moss Motors, Ltd. is not liable for injury or damage due to incorrect installation or use of their products. All products are sold with the understanding that the safe and proper installation and use of the products is the customer’s responsibility. Follow factory workshop manual procedures and instructions, but use current shop safety standards and common sense. Some tasks will require professional advice or services which Moss Motors cannot provide.Email (for Moss Tech help): BritishTechnicalSupport@mossmotors.comEmail (for comment on Forum Tech Tips): TechTipAdmin@mossmotors.com
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