Moss Motors, Ltd

I'd like to replace the oem distributor/ignition system on my 1980 1500 with a more reliable electronic iginition system...

Any suggestions, recommendations, advice or stories you can share?

                                                    - michael

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- michael

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1980 Spitfire 1500 Non-OD 4spd

See my post in the Jag section above about the 22D distributor rebuild and electronic conversion.  Or, go here:  http://www.74tr6.com/distributor.htm

Good luck,

 Paul
 

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Paul Rego
www.74tr6.com

What is unreliable about your old ignition.  You can fix it on the fly with a matchbook and screwdriver.  Electronic one when they fail, well they fail!!

MGTC is correct - simple is often best. I am yet to meet anyone who can repair an electronic ignition system.

And I would be very wary of using anything with "FLAME THROWER" in it's name.

Maurice

I haven't replaced the entire iginition system.  My Brother has on his old TR-6.  It appeared to work well.  I did replace the points with photo electric points on my '70 MKIII and it did wonders for my timing.  Haven't had to tweak it yet since installation.  It was alot cheaper and very easy to install.  Not sure what problem your Spit is having.  But electronic points might be a cheaper start.

Jeff

ps I used a Crane Cams XR 700 kit from Victoria British

My '77 Spitfire had a cheapie electronic ignition when I bought the car 4 years ago. Car starts and runs the instant I turn the key... even in the winter (I live in Toronto Ontario Canada)! If anyone is that worried about being stranded by a dead electronic.... you can always carry the points/condensors etc. just in case. My son is so impressed by my Spit's performance that he is getting one for his '71 MGB.

Regards, David Hall

David - what electronic system you are using in your SF?

 

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- michael

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1980 Spitfire 1500 Non-OD 4spd

Maybe it's the starter, not the ignition, but when the engine is warmed up, like after stopping for a short period at a store or something, turning the ignition key doesn't engage the starter or turnover the motor - sinstead, I just get a whining sound.

 

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- michael

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1980 Spitfire 1500 Non-OD 4spd

Brosky:

See my post in the Jag section above about the 22D distributor rebuild and electronic conversion. 

 

Brosky post in the Jag section is here: http://www.mossmotors.com/Forum/forums/thread/405.aspx

 

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- michael

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1980 Spitfire 1500 Non-OD 4spd

MIKE,CRANE AND PERTRONIX MAKE AN ELEC. IGNITION THAT FITS IN YOUR STOCK DIST.I DON'T KNOW IF THEY MAKE ONE FOR A SPIT.OR NOT BUT MIGHT BE WORTH A TRY.I'VE USED BOTH PRODUCTS AND THEY WORKED GREAT. GOOD LUCK,

                                                                                                           STEVE

I have a Pertronix in my 76 Spitfire, it was installed by the previous owner. I was trying to set the timing the other day and noticed that it was set off the scale BTDC. UIt starts and runs fairly good but when I set it to 10 BTDC it started running sluggish. I am not sure if it is suppose to set that far off the scale but it runs pretty good.

I run a pertronix unit on my `76 tr-7 and have had no problems so far. Installed it when the orig. elec. setup died. I think that the advance curve on them is sligtly different then stock though, so you may have to re time it after the install.(I did) Hope this helps. Robbie in wyoming 

Guys,

The pertronix or crane units will not change the advance curve of your distributor, nor any other characteristic. They are only switching devices designed to replace the points. They require thoughtful and careful installation to function properly.

The Crane "Fireball" unit, in particular, which I favor, must be understood and properly installed in order to avoid poor rotor to pole index which will cause more trouble than it cures! The instructions are a tad confusing since they try to cover umptyzillion applications at once. But, once correctly installed, I have found them to be the more accurate and reliable unit. I've seen where a lot of folks cling to the "good ole" technology of burning points, claiming that if the electronic unit fails you are high and dry, whereas with points you can always get going with a screwdriver and a nail file. Oh yeah? Ever repair a blown condenser with a nail file? How do you restore a shorted, burnt set of points with a melted rubbing block with a screwdriver? I install electronic units in virtually all my customer's vehicles and I have seen two failures in the last six years. How's that stack up against points? Besides, I've developed a technique whereby if you do have an electronic failure and you have two and tools with you and a set of points and a condenser, you can be on your way again in fifteen minutes. Meanwhile, you get to enjoy all the benefits of modern ignition. i.e. more accurate timing, better starting both hot and cold, better overall reliability. and better low speed accelleration.

If all this wasn't true, do you think EVERY manufacturer of automobiles in the world today would be using electronic ignition. Sorry for the rant. Sometimes a guy just has to get this stuff out...

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

My 78 had a points type distributor when it came to my hands. I had to get  it smogged and they required electrionic ignition. What I did was to get an MSD 6 box and connect it to the points. This satisfied the smog police and allows me to go to points quickly in the event of the MSD unit failing. I know that I still have to worry about timing but what the hey. Oh I did swap the coil for a MSD Blaster 2 coil.

I fires right up every time.The MSD (multiple spark discharge) helps igniting the charge at low to about 3500 rpm. Passed smog.

 

Luis in smog sticky CA 

I've been wondering the same thing about my '80 Midget distributor.  It's electronic, and likely identical to yours.  My initial feeling is that it's a decent distributor, but the spark could be better.  Have you tried a 40 000V coil?  That gives the plugs a lot more zap. 

You can also put on an MSD ignition module and bigger (less Ohm resistance) plug wires.  You can get these from the local auto parts store.  They'll sell them cheap for a small block Chevy.  All you have to do is bring in your distributor cap and ensure they'll fit the holes.  The bonus is that you'll have enough to do at least four little British cars with one set of wires.