Moss Motors, Ltd

The TR8 is arguably one of the most hotrodded of the LBCs.  I'd be interested to hear what others have done with thiers.  I currently putting mine back together with a 3.9, holley conversion & headers.  I have a 3.45 rear from a TR7,14x6 Panasports, KYB shocks, the uprated bushes and springs from Woody Cooper.

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72 MGB 80 TR8
Pittsburgh PA

 Sounds like you're well on your way by hitting all the standard performing enhancing areas.  Of course, you can also lower weight, which has a significant effect.  I would removce the A/C system if you have it equipped (and are not using it.)  It is quite heavy. Also, air injection and catalytic converters weigh a ton and restrict quite a bit of power. (Just be careful, since if you remove the emissions equipment, you can never sell it to someone in CA.)  I see you're doing the 3.9 conversion, so this changes things anyway.

You might also consider an ignition upgrade with higher-output coil, distributor and less restrictive wires.

Cheers,

Sam

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Sam Barer
Automotive Journalist,
"Sound Classics" Collector Car Column
&
"Four Wheel Drift" Automotive Blog
'60 TR3,'86 Ferrari 328 GTS,'91 Miata,'02 Corvette Conv.

Yes the AC stuff is off (never worked anyway) I've also installed a TR7 manual rack to get rid of the power steering.  I figure with the wieght reduction the P/S won't be that much of an issue anyway.  I have a Mallory dist, MSD ignition, Crane silicone wires and headers.  I'm in PA and with the classic plates, emissions isn't an issue.  I did keep all the stock stuff just in case though.  I think I'll have plenty of HP but would like to do more with the suspension.  Strut brace, uprated swaybars and maybe camber plates if I could find ones that would fit.  Doubt it will ever handle like my B but would like to come close.  I like to do autocross & track days.  If I could swing the money, an 8.8 Ford rear with discs would be nice.  Does anyone know of an alternateive water pump/ pulley setup?  Without all the accys, the pulleys and belt really stick out the front.  It would look nicer if they were tucked in closer to the front of the engine. 

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72 MGB 80 TR8
Pittsburgh PA

Underdog:

It sounds like you are way ahead of me. I just got my Fuel Injected TR8 back on the road after 15 years. Living in California, it has to meet smog, but I'm thinking that storing the catalytic converters off the car may be the best way to keep them in good shape for the next test in two years time. The car is running well now, but the springs have sagged to the point that back end is on the bump stops every time you get on it.

I'm doing the suspension over the next couple of weeks using uprated bushings, springs, sway bars and GAZ adjustable shocks all round. Once that lot is done it will be time to look at wheels. Moss carries a 15" Panasport that is tasty, but I'm looking at other options too.

 

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Kelvin Dodd
Global Sourcing Engineer
Moss Motors, Ltd.
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Disclaimer: Working on automobiles is inherently dangerous. Moss Motors, Ltd. is not liable for injury or damage due to incorrect installation or use of their products. All products are sold with the understanding that the safe and proper installation and use of the products is the customer’s responsibility. Follow factory workshop manual procedures and instructions, but use current shop safety standards and common sense. Some tasks will require professional advice or services which Moss Motors cannot provide.

Oh, forgot to mention.

Shortening the nose of the Rover V8 is a common MGB V8 mod. The hot tip is to take the original harmonic damper and cut a belt groove into it on a lathe. Then the belt path is the same as the early Buick, Rover P6B and MGB GT V8. Anyone specializing in stuffing the engine into an MGB can supply the appropriate early Buick waterpump, pulley, and alternator mount. I picked up a pair of pulleys from D & D Fabrication along with some other bits and was very happy with the service. I've not seen this done on a TR8, but it would clean up the front end a lot. I'm stuffing Rover motors into an MGB and a 1968 Morgan +8 so have had to pick up the bits to do two motors.

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Kelvin Dodd
Global Sourcing Engineer
Moss Motors, Ltd.
Helpful Links:
Code of Conduct
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Disclaimer: Working on automobiles is inherently dangerous. Moss Motors, Ltd. is not liable for injury or damage due to incorrect installation or use of their products. All products are sold with the understanding that the safe and proper installation and use of the products is the customer’s responsibility. Follow factory workshop manual procedures and instructions, but use current shop safety standards and common sense. Some tasks will require professional advice or services which Moss Motors cannot provide.

A friend of mine did the V8 conversion on his 80 LE.  I remember him geting the balancer machined as you say.  I'll have to check into that.  I bought the 14 inch panasports when I first got the car.  The 15s weren't available yet.  I'd go with the 15s if I were doing it now since the tire selection is much better for 15 inch.  There are a few 205/55 14 available in HP summer such as the Yokahama AVS 100 and Dot rated competition from Nitto and Kumho.  I'll probably go with one of those rather than buy another set of wheels.

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72 MGB 80 TR8
Pittsburgh PA

I had to stick with the stock wheels for the moment, till I get a lot of other problems ironed out. The car still outhandles my MGB on the canyon, even with skinny 185/70 -13 Uniroyals. There is a world of difference in the suspension design. I'm not about to knock the MGB, but they are very different cars.

Next up is to get the rack rebuilt. How is the effort on the manual rack?

 

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Kelvin Dodd
Global Sourcing Engineer
Moss Motors, Ltd.
Helpful Links:
Code of Conduct
FAQs

Disclaimer: Working on automobiles is inherently dangerous. Moss Motors, Ltd. is not liable for injury or damage due to incorrect installation or use of their products. All products are sold with the understanding that the safe and proper installation and use of the products is the customer’s responsibility. Follow factory workshop manual procedures and instructions, but use current shop safety standards and common sense. Some tasks will require professional advice or services which Moss Motors cannot provide.

Kelvin, I hope you didn't pinch that Rover motor out of your SD1. I have useable 3500s motors if you need them bad enough...

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

Kelvin

I haven't driven mine yet since it's still a ways off of being on the road.  But, I've talked to others that have done the TR7 rack and they say it's not bad except in tight parking situations.  I can't see it being a problem since it isn't an issue with the MGB V8 conversions.  If I'm correct, the alloy V8 is actually lighter than the stock iron 4cyl.  Also, TSI (Ted Schumacher) sells a needle brg top strut mount that helps with the steering effort. 

Granted, my MGB is far from stock so maybe it's not a fair comparison.  However, I talked with Burt Levy one day at Beaver Run and he said I'll be hard pressed to achieve the balance and ridgedity af an MGB with the Triumph body.  He's spent quite a bit of seat time in vintage prepared Bs so maybe we're both a little biased.  Actually, I had originally thought of getting a rubber bumper B and doing the V8 deal but it was far cheaper to buy the TR8 that allready had the engine setup from the factory.

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72 MGB 80 TR8
Pittsburgh PA

Underdog,

The fact is that the TR-7/8 base unit was announced as one of the very most torsionally rigid chassis ever designed and manufactured when it came out. Now, I'm an MG guy,basically speaking, but facts is facts. The wedge is a better basis for building a high performance machine, on track or off. Once you remove all the rubber from the front suspension and front crossmember, and the rear suspension, its potential can become realized. I've owned and driven a lot of hi-perf MGs and a lot of TRs. The best handling, and roadholding of the lot, off the showroom floor was the TR-7, darn it. I wish it had been an MG, but it wasn't. I bought a new TR7 in '76 because of this, and I have a 1980 convertible now for the same reason. Facts is facts.(by the way, I still love MGs a bit more, and have had , and will have, bunches more of them). 

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

Like I said, My MG is far from stock and I'm compareing to a relatively stock TR8.  Perhaps my opinion could change after I complete the mods on my TR8.  I do know one thing.  The TR8 & 7 convertibles had cast iron wieghts attached to the front bumpers in an effort to combat "scuttle shake".  This was never an issue with the MG since it was designed from the start as a roadster with metal braceing from the tunnel to the dash.  I've parted out MGBs with the sills completely rotted away and the doors still opened and shut!  Like I said though, and I do hope, perhaps with the power steering, AC and those darn wieghts gone, maybe it will feel like a different car. 

As a side note, I have an 88 Corvette in my shop for repairs right now.  Now if you wanna drive something that feels like half the bolts are loose and nothings connected...hahaha

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72 MGB 80 TR8
Pittsburgh PA

Underdog:

Not to knock Burt too much, as I love his books, but I doubt if he has that much seat time in a TR8. Knowing him though, it's possible he has smooched a ride or two.

The TR7/8 coupe is incredibly stiff, but as you noted the convertible lost a lot of strength and there was cowl shake on the development models.

I was looking at comparing street car to street car on an overall road holding and handling comparison. I have been doing the same canyon driving in my 1970 MGB and my 1980 TR8. Both have stock suspensions and are on original wheels and tires. The TR8 is a much better handling car, due to the more modern suspension design. That said, both have lots of room for modifications and the current handling of the 8 is frankly BORING! The suspension is very compliant which does keep the tires stuck to the road, but there is no crispness to the handling, so it feels like driving a canal barge. In other words it feels mushy and is no fun to drive, but it still out handles the MGB as the B will lose traction on corners much earlier due to the stiffer springing and dated damper control. Importantly, this is road driving, not autocross.

Thanks for the input on the rack, I've got to check rebuilding costs, then make a decision.

all the best

 

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Kelvin Dodd
Global Sourcing Engineer
Moss Motors, Ltd.
Helpful Links:
Code of Conduct
FAQs

Disclaimer: Working on automobiles is inherently dangerous. Moss Motors, Ltd. is not liable for injury or damage due to incorrect installation or use of their products. All products are sold with the understanding that the safe and proper installation and use of the products is the customer’s responsibility. Follow factory workshop manual procedures and instructions, but use current shop safety standards and common sense. Some tasks will require professional advice or services which Moss Motors cannot provide.

Motorbill:

Thanks for the offer, but....

I'm suffering a surfeit of 3.5L motors currently. The one going in my MGB came out of a badly damaged TR8, so no Rovers were harmed in the creation of said car. The engine going in the Moggie has dubious heritage, as it was at one time in a Spitfire (don't ask).

That said, I do have to part out an Automatic SD1 and a P6B in the next couple of months before the county gets nasty. Both cars are very much beyond help. On the plus side, I have one of the few driving SD1s in California and try to take it to as many car shows as possible.

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Kelvin Dodd
Global Sourcing Engineer
Moss Motors, Ltd.
Helpful Links:
Code of Conduct
FAQs

Disclaimer: Working on automobiles is inherently dangerous. Moss Motors, Ltd. is not liable for injury or damage due to incorrect installation or use of their products. All products are sold with the understanding that the safe and proper installation and use of the products is the customer’s responsibility. Follow factory workshop manual procedures and instructions, but use current shop safety standards and common sense. Some tasks will require professional advice or services which Moss Motors cannot provide.

Kelvin, (or Kevin, as some seem to prefer...)

Thanks for putting my mind at ease concerning the SD1. I may very well have the last driving one in in Colorado. The 390 Holley and Edlebrock manifold are the answer to a prayer!

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Motorbill
From Lola to Land Rover, If it's British and has wheels, it's likely I've bloodied me knuckles thereupon

Motorbill:

This should probably head over to the "Other British Cars" thread, but I guess the application is similar enough to stay here.

Do you know what jets you are running in the Holley? Vacuum or mech secondaries? Electric or manual choke?

Which Edlebrock manifold?      Enquiring minds and all that.

My SD1 is currently running a John Wolf/Offy dual plane manifold with Holley 390 straight out the box, vacuum secondaries that don't open and the electric choke, which works pretty well. The car is getting about 33 mpg, but takes a while to get up to speed, which is fine as it's not intended to be a point and squirt car.  The TR8 that got smashed had a full tilt race 390 with mechanical secondaries, no choke mechanism on an Offy 360 manifold. Sorry, I havn't checked the jetting yet, but I do know the car spent a lot of time on the dyno.

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Kelvin Dodd
Global Sourcing Engineer
Moss Motors, Ltd.
Helpful Links:
Code of Conduct
FAQs

Disclaimer: Working on automobiles is inherently dangerous. Moss Motors, Ltd. is not liable for injury or damage due to incorrect installation or use of their products. All products are sold with the understanding that the safe and proper installation and use of the products is the customer’s responsibility. Follow factory workshop manual procedures and instructions, but use current shop safety standards and common sense. Some tasks will require professional advice or services which Moss Motors cannot provide.